Favorite Team Football Helmet by Nicole Bencker

Favorite Team Football Helmet

August 2014
Worsted (9 wpi) ?
15 stitches and 11.5 rows = 4 inches
in hdc
5.5 mm (I)
3.75 mm (F)
60 - 200 yards (55 - 183 m)
Newborn, Infant (3 months), Baby (6 months), Toddler (1-2 years), Preschooler (3-5 years), Child (6-10 years), Teen/Small Adult, Medium Adult, Large Adult
This pattern is available for $4.95 USD
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The Favorite Team Football Helmet was inspired by my almost 6-year-old son. He loves football just like his dad and will be playing football for the first time this fall. This completely customizable hat can be made in any colors to show your team spirit for any team. I also include ideas for adding letters, numbers and mascots to the sides of the helmets for the ultimate football fan.

• Newborn fits 14” head circumference
• Infant (3 months) fits 16” head circumference
• Baby (6 months) fits 18” head circumference
• Toddler (1–2 years) fits 19” head circumference
• Preschooler (3-5 years) fits 20” head circumference
• Child (6-10 years) fits 21” head circumference
• Teen/Small Adult fits 22” head circumference
• Medium Adult fits 23” head circumference
• Large Adult fits 24” head circumference

• I-5.5 mm hook; I use a Clover hook which I have found creates a slightly smaller stitch. I also tend to be a really tight crocheter. For these two reasons, I highly recommend working up a gauge swatch ahead of time. (See below in Pattern Notes for directions on working up a gauge swatch).
• F-3.75mm hook
• Worsted Weight yarn. I used I Love This Yarn by Hobby Lobby. You will need up to 100g or 175 yards of the main color and up to 11g or 20 yards of accent color. (This only includes yarn needed for the helmet, earholes and pinstripe, extra yarn will be needed if you choose to applique letters, numbers or mascots on the sides of the helmet). Aran yarn would be an acceptable substitute if you don’t have access to worsted weight yarn.
• Stitch markers (I use paperclips)
• Yarn or tapestry needle to weave in ends and sew on appliques if desired

Skill Level:
• Intermediate

• 15 hdc and 11.5 rows = 4” square; use a different size hook or yarn to obtain proper gauge (See below in Pattern Notes for directions on working up a gauge swatch)

Abbreviations and Stitches Used: in US terminology
• Ch – chain stitch
• Dc – double crochet
• Dc2tog – double crochet 2 stitches together
• Hdc – half double crochet
• Hdc2tog – half double crochet 2 stitches together
• MC – Magic Circle
• Rnd(s) – round(s)
• Sc – single crochet
• Sl st – Slip Stitch
• St – stitch
• Tog – together
• Yo – yarn over

• Crochet 1 sc and 1 hdc together – Insert hook, yo, pull up a loop, yo, insert hook in next st, yo, pull up a loop (4 loops on hook), yo, pull through all 4 loops on hook

• Crochet 1 hdc and 1 sc together – yo, insert hook into next st, yo, pull up a loop, insert hook into next st, yo, pull up a loop (4 loops on hook), yo, pull through all 4 loops on hook.

Pattern Notes:
• Pattern is written in US terms
• Read pattern in its entirety first
• Always work a gauge swatch first. Each crocheter crochets with a different tension. I tend to crochet really tight. To complete a gauge swatch, I crochet a 5”x5” square in the stitch or pattern specified. This is so that at least the first and last row and the sides will not be included in my 4”x4” square. I then measure how many stitches and rows are in my square. If it is too small (you have more stitches or rows than specified), then you move up a hook size or two. If it is too big (you have fewer stitches or rows than specified), then you move down a hook size or two. The goal is to reach a gauge that is as close as possible to the pattern writer’s. It may seem like a waste of time, but I always find that it is worth it in the end; especially with fitted, wearable items. If you are not within ¼” when I give the diameter measurement for the crown of the hat in each pattern size, you should check your gauge and work a gauge swatch if you haven’t already.
• When working in rounds, I always start with a magic circle; there are many great tutorials on the internet
• When working in rounds, the ch1 or ch2 NEVER count as the first stitch
• I work this hat in an amigurumi style which means you do not join at the end of each round or chain up to begin a new round. You use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each row. For example: Round 1 has 5 stitches and Round 2 has 10 stitches. At the end of Round 1, you do not join, you go on and work the first 2 stitches of Round 2 into the top of the first stitch of Round 1. Remove your stitch marker from Round 1 and place it in the first stitch of Round 2. Move your stitch marker at the beginning of each round