“I found her, as usual, busy with some piece of soft embroidery (the mania for Berlin wools had not yet commenced), while her sister was seated at the chimney-corner, with the cat on her knee, mending a heap of stockings.”
The Tenant of Wildfell Hall by Bronte, Anne

This vintage pattern specifies Berlin wool and Size 17 steel needles.
Information on Berlin wool and Berlin embroidery can be found here:
Information about vintage needle sizes is available here: