2015-01-13
- Forgot to rearrange the stitched before starting the toe, so I’ll do that before grafting 20 sets, ending on a decrease row)
2015-01-12
- What do you know, the toes on these are worn through AGAIN (I’m looking at you, Cascade 220). It’s always at the decreases, too. I really need to try these toe-up with a short row toe.
- After much brainstorming with klawlabear, I am going to reknit the toes, double-stranding the red to make them double-thick like the rest of the project.
- I’m also going to use Tuffy in Red Mix because these really need the toughness!
2014-01-13
- These started to wear at the toes (like pretty much all my other socks/slippers).
- I think these wore quicker because I used Cascade 220 for the toes, which doesn’t contain nylon. So I ripped back and reknit the toes with k1, sl1 on the bottom for reinforcement!
I feel like I am darning the toes of my Daniel-style Vamps every other week. Clearly I need another pair to help carry the load.
I am mixing yarns for this pair (B&L Tuffy and Cascade 220), but so far so good.
2013-03-10
- Done and blocking!
2013-03-09
- After completing the pattern, did a row of grey on the snowflake (instep) side and another row of s&p on the snow side before starting the toe.
- Because the instep and sole stitches are different and uneven (because of the snowflake pattern), I rearranged the stitches to be even (27 and 27) before starting the toe
2013-03-06
2013-03-05
- Did 21 rows per heel flap (10 slipped stitches + 1 on needle)
- Turn heel: work 18 stitches (instead of 17 b/c I did sl1, k1 instead of k1, sl1), sl1, k1, psso. Turn.
- 1: sl1, p9, p2tog. Turn.
- 2: (sl1, k1) 5 times, sl1, k1, psso. Turn.
- This makes the heel wider (ends with 11 sts instead of 9), which is fine for a slipper!
2013-03-04
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3.0mm needle for ribbing
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Long tail cast-on
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3 rows gray (MC), 3 red (CC), 3 gray, 3 red, 3 gray = 15 rows for cuff
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Started heel flap in CC (red) on 3.5mm needle (instead of doing the heel flap on the smaller needles like I did for my previous pair)
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1: p
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2: sl1, k1 to end (end w/sl1) - this is so both edges will be neat, slipped stitches