EXP Sweater by Susanna Kaartinen

EXP Sweater

Knitting
October 2022
Fingering (14 wpi) ?
17 stitches and 42 rows = 4 inches
in Shaker St / Two-colour Shaker St
US 2½ - 3.0 mm
US 4 - 3.5 mm
1039 - 2078 yards (950 - 1900 m)
1-9
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This pattern is available for AU$12.00 AUD buy it now

Reversible, cropped, 3/4 sleeves and a funnel neckline,
this sweater is as fun to knit as it is to wear!
It has a unique raglan shaping and a subtle batwing shape. Knit it in one colour for a more understated look, have fun with colours with a fade version or go for a striking and bold striped look with just two colours.

Sizes:
Sizes: 1 (2, 3, 4, 5)(6, 7, 8, 9)

Finished chest Circumference:
97 (106, 115, 124, 133)(141.5, 150.5, 159, 172.5) cm /
38.25 (41.85, 45.25, 48.75, 52.25)(55.75, 59.25, 62.75, 68)“.
Designed to fit:
82 (92, 102, 112, 122)(132, 142.5, 152.5, 163) cm / 32 (36, 40, 44, 48)(52, 56, 60, 64)” bust circumference with 15 - 20 cm / 6 - 8” of positive ease.

Finished (Approx) length:
46.5 (48.5, 49.5, 51.5, 52.5)(53.5, 54.5, 55, 56) cm /
18.5 (19, 19.5, 20.5, 20.75)(21, 21.5, 21.5, 22)“.

Yarn:
Recommended yarn types for best results:
Use a heavy fingering weight MC yarn (teal coloured yarn in the sample) and a fingering weight CC yarn (4 variagated light colourways in the sample). Worsted spun, smooth and drapey yarns work best.
Quantities are estimations, actual yardage may vary depending on your needle size and yarn type, modifications etc.

Main colour (MC)
YARN A: 519 (597, 644, 713, 780)(831, 906, 984, 1045) m / 568 (653, 705, 780, 854)(909, 991, 1077, 1143) yds of 4-ply / heavy fingering weight wool yarn.
Teal Sample is knit with Pirate Purl yarns Blackbeard (90% polwarth wool, 10% silk, 370 m / 405 yds - 100 g) in Lady Luck.
Purple Sample is knit with Pirate Purl yarns Blackbeard (90% polwarth wool, 10% silk, 370 m / 405 yds - 100 g) in Cork

Contrast colour (CC)

Fade version
YARN B: 38 (43, 47, 52, 56)(60, 65, 71, 75) m / 42 (48, 52, 57, 62)(66, 72, 78, 83) yds of 4-ply / fingering weight wool yarn.
Sample is knit with Hedgehog Fibres Sock Yarn (90% superwash merino, 10% nylon, 400 m / 437 yds - 100 g) in Typewriter.
YARN C: 112 (129, 139, 154, 168)(179, 195, 212, 225) m / 123 (142, 153, 169, 184)(196, 214, 232, 247) yds of 4-ply / fingering weight wool yarn.
Sample is knit with Maximoo Yarns Sock Yarn (85% superwash merino, 15% nylon, 400 m / 437 yds - 100 g) in Sombre Sky.
YARN D: 169 (194, 209, 232, 254)(270, 294, 320, 340) m / 185 (213, 229, 254, 278)(296, 322, 350, 372) yds of 4-ply / fingering weight wool yarn.
Sample is knit with Maximoo Yarns Sock Yarn (85% superwash merino, 15% nylon, 400 m / 437 yds - 100 g) in Forest Fire.
YARN E: 104 (120, 129, 143, 156)(167, 182, 197, 209) m / 114 (132, 142, 157, 171)(183, 200, 216, 229) yds of 4-ply / fingering weight wool yarn.
Sample is knit with Spun Right Round SW Sock 80/20 (80% superwash merino, 20% nylon, 366 m / 400 yds -100 g) in Dr Amp.

Purple Sample CC yarn is Swish yarns 100% Merino 4ply in three colours.

Two-colour version
YARN B: 423 (486, 524, 581, 634)(676, 736, 800, 849) m / 464 (535, 576, 637, 695)(741, 808, 876, 931) yds of 4-ply / fingering weight wool yarn.

Suggested needle sizes:
Size A: 3.5 mm / US 4, 50 - 120 cm / 20 - 47” circular needles AND needles suitable for knitting small circumferences in the round.
Size B: 3 mm / US 2, needles suitable for knitting small circumferences in the round.

Notions
8 st markers in 4 types, crochet hook, tapestry needle, waste yarn, spare needle in similar size, st holders.

Gauge:
17 sts and 42 rounds = 10 cm / 4” in Shaker stitch with size A needle, measured from blocked and relaxed fabric.

Note on gauge: Fabric needs to be blocked quite heavily to achieve this gauge, strongly recommended to knit a big swatch, (min. 15 cm / 6” square) block it and let it relax for a few hours before measuring the gauge.

Design notes:
The sweater is knit top down and in the round. After completing the folded collar and yoke, body and sleeves are worked separately in the round. As a final step, raglan panels are grafted together to close side seams.
It is worked primarily in Two-colour Shaker St with alternating rounds of Yarn A as Main colour (MC) and Yarns B - E in a fade sequence or just Yarn B for a two-colour version as Contrast colour (CC). Beginning of collar, and ribbed hem and cuffs are worked with Yarn A only.

Techniques:

  • Knitting in the round
  • Crochet provisional CO
  • Tubular BO and grafting with kitchener stitch
  • Two-colour shaker st in the round
  • Increases and decreases in shaker st
  • 1x1 twisted ribbing

Skill level:
Intermediate