The Tessa Thermal Vest by Rita Dowd

The Tessa Thermal Vest

Knitting
April 2025
both are used in this pattern
yarn held together
DK
+ DK
= Worsted (9 wpi) ?
16 stitches and 36 rows = 4 inches
in Thermal Brioche 4-row repeat
US 5 - 3.75 mm
US 3 - 3.25 mm
1100 - 2530 yards (1006 - 2313 m)
1 (2, 3, 4) 5 (6, 7, 8) 9
English
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The Tessa Thermal Vest is an oversized knit vest with ties at the chest, featuring a modified brioche stitch for a waffled texture. It begins with a provisional cast-on at the shoulders and a knit cast-on at the back of the neck. The back panel is worked flat to form the main body and armholes. The front chest panels are picked up from each shoulder and worked individually. Once completed, the front and back panels are joined and worked flat to the desired length.The vest is finished with a 3-stitch I-cord bind-off, starting at the hem and continuing seamlessly around the chest and neckline for a polished edge. Armholes are also finished with an attached 3-stitch I-cord. Finally, 3 options to close are provided to either add ties, buttons or a sewn closure for a pullover vest!

Skills Needed

Knit, purl, slipping stitches, yarn overs, purling stitches together
Brioche techniques & increasing
Attached & regular i-cord
Provisional cast on
Knit cast on
Picking up stitches along garter edge
Grafting

Schematics

Sizes: 1, (2, 3, 4), 5, (6, 7, 8), 9

Ease: Positive Ease of 8-10”or 20-25 cm

Finished Bust Circumference: 40 (44, 49, 52) 57 (62, 66, 71) 76 inches or 102 (113, 125, 134) 145 (157, 168, 179) 193 centimeters

Finished Length (Shoulder to Hem): 19 (19.5, 20.5, 21) 21.75 (22.25, 23, 23.5) 24.5” or 48 (49, 52, 53) 55 (56, 58, 59) 62 cm

Finished Armhole Circumference: 19.4 (21.3, 23.6, 25) 27.25 (29, 31.5, 33.3) 36” or 49 (54, 60, 63) 69 (74, 80, 85) 92 cm

Sample is worked in size 2, bust is 35”.

Gauge
Swatching is very important, however the stitch is in the pattern. Thank you for understanding.

4x4” in Thermal Brioche Stitch
16 stitches by 36 rows blocked & unstretched using US 5 (or needles used to obtain gauge)

Materials
US 5 / 3.75 mm 24” and 40” circular needles (for body, hem and armholes) or needles used to obtain gauge
US 3 / 3.25 mm 16” circular needles (for ties) or 2 sizes smaller than needles used for body and hems
Scrap yarn & a crochet hook

Yarn

6 (6, 7, 8) 8 (9, 10, 11) 12 skeins of Juniper Moon Farm Herriot DK (100% extrafine baby alpaca; 219 yards per 100 g) held double

OR

Yardage of Similar DK weight yarn (held double) needed:
1145 (1275, 1480, 1595) 1790 (1975, 2160, 2360) 2615 yards / 1046 (1165, 1352, 1457) 1636 (1805, 1974, 2157) 2390 meters

yardage needed for a 6x6” swatch has been factored in

If you choose to knit a longer vest, you will need this amount of DK weight yarn (held double) per inch of length:
50 (55, 61, 65) 71 (77, 82, 88) 95 yards / 45 (50, 56, 59) 65 (70, 75, 81) 86 meters

When Juniper Moon Farm Herriot DK is held double, it is generally accepted as aran/bulky weight yarn due the new yardage/weight at 109 yards per 100g. To further assist in choosing a yarn different from the suggestion, I am able to achieve 9-10 WPI which is accepted as medium worsted/aran weight yarn.

If you choose a medium worsted/aran weight yarn to hold single, you will need exactly half of the recommended yardage above.

It seems surprising to knit this thickness of yarn on such small needles; however, to get a “blooming” brioche that bounces back, it is necessary. The result is plush and thermal!
Play around with your stash to achieve gauge before making a purchase that is different from the suggested yarn.