I’m using the detailed notes and charts in Seventeenth-Century Women’s Dress Patterns: Book 1, though I’m working with half as many stitches (re: gauge), a different floral motif (Dale of Norway’s Damask Pillow Pattern or also Damask Understated Bag.), and I’m not doing the reverse stockinette inside the pattern (just doesn’t lend itself well to it in this gauge).

First attempt had blue ground and gold pattern. As beautiful as I think it looks, I think reversing it was more consistent with most extant pieces. I also added a border.

Back
Cast on 168
Purl 2 rows
Edges have 4 garter stitches + 2 stockinette each side
20 rows of 5x5 basket stitch
2 rows plain
4 rows of border
2 rows plain
Begin pattern (32-stitch repeat) centered
Side decreases on rows 39, 47, 55, 63, 71, 79, 95, 111 and 127.
Cast off 6 sts each side for armscye at row 150 (from cast on edge)
48 more rows to top edge - last 9 plain/no pattern.

Front
Cast on 80
Side decreases to match back

Sleeves
Cast on 70
Need to increase to 148….

Research
V&A links to 4 silk knitted jackets.
Silk Jacket detailed in book
Silk Jacket from 1600 - 1620
Silk Jacket from 1600 - 1630
Un-assembled Jacket from 1600 - 1625

Updates
02/14/14 - trying to decide which row I want to bind off for my armscye. I’m at 150 rows and estimate by the chart I need 44 more rows to the neck - but by measuring, I’m getting 48 rows. So maybe I’ll just split the difference and say 46. If I have to err, I’d rather err on the side of the sleeve fitting properly than the overall length of the piece being perfect.

02/21/14 - finished back piece. planning fronts. Left on needles to join fronts at the shoulders later.

04/18/14 - first front half finally done and blocked.

11/24/14 - second front half done and blocked. Sleeves left.

1/19/15 - halfway done with first sleeve. Need to pick up more steam.

3/25/15 - halfway done with the second sleeve, lining selected - almost ready to assemble!

3/30/15 - finished knitting! Need to block, seam, and line it.