This colorway is just gorgeous. Picture doesn’t even come close. After the ribbing I started alternating skeins every two rows, but now I wish I’d done it for the ribbing too!

Omitting the overlapping fronts and making a collar and pockets like on my Portage. Knitting the fronts and back at once to eliminate seaming, and omitting the moss stitch front panels so it gives the cardigan an open front like Portage.

Going to attempt to write this all out here, in case anyone else is interested…

NOTE: The red blocks on the chart show pattern repeats, with the set up and finishing row stitches outside of the boxes. The blue lines are stitch markers, and the yellow ones are side markers. The even-numbered rows are wrong side (WS) rows, which should be knit as pictured (not reversed as in many patterns.) The first (large) chart is for the body, and the second (small) chart is for the sleeves.

PATTERN FOR PORT OBLIQUE:

86 sts for back - 2 selvedge - 84
50 sts for each front - 15 from each for moss stitch pattern, - 1 each for selvedge = 34

CO 152 sts. I used a tubular CO, even though it’s a little more time consuming. I love the look and it’s nice and stretchy. Sooo…. CO 76 LOOSELY with knitted CO, k 4 rows. Next row: k1, pick up bar from CO edge and purl it all the way across, which will double stitch count. Continue knitting in k1 p1 rib for 3” ending with WS row.

Decrease row (RS): k1, k2tog, k28, k2tog, place side marker, k20, k2tog 3 times, place side marker, k2tog, k28, k2tog, k1- 145 sts.

Next row (WS): knit across.

Lace pattern set up row:

(left front)
work 16 sts in right leaning diagonal lace pattern, place marker,
work 15 sts in moss stitch, slip side marker,

(back)
work 15 sts in moss stitch, place marker,
work 16 sts in right leaning diagonal lace pattern, place marker,
work 21 sts in textured lace pattern, place marker,
work 16 sts in left leaning diagonal lace pattern, place marker,
work 15 sts in moss stitch, slip side marker,

(right front)
work 15 sts in moss stitch, place marker,
work 16 sts in left leaning diagonal lace pattern.

The green lines in the chart are the breaks between the different patterns. I found that once you get the pattern established it’s pretty easy to read your knitting and know what to do without referencing the chart.

3.15.16 Knit to 5” from CO edge (I finished on row 8, to make remembering when to do the decreases easy.) Do first set of decreases this row as follows:

Work in pattern to last 2 sts before first side marker, decrease 1 stitch in pattern (notes to follow), slip marker, decrease 1 stitch in pattern, work to 2 sts before next side marker, decrease 1 stitch in pattern, slip marker, decrease 1 stitch in pattern, work in pattern to end of the row.

Work 7 rows in pattern.

Work these 8 rows 6 times more - 117 sts.

Notes from pattern page (edited to apply to knitting all pieces at once):

Work decreases in Moss Stitch as follows:

• 2 sts before side marker, if the next st on the needle is a k st, work k2tog. If it is a p st, work p2tog.
• After slipping side marker, if the next st on the needle is a k st, work ssp. If it is a p st, work ssk.

(As a cheat, since I didn’t notice much of a difference, I just did K2tog and P2tog as needed in the pattern.)

Knit one pattern repeat (8 rows) even. Then begin increases by working to 1 st before side marker, m1 in pattern, work to 1 st after side marker, m1 in pattern, k to 1 st before other side marker, m1 in pattern, work to 1 st after other side marker, m1 in pattern, work in pattern to end of row. Do this on the first row of 8-row pattern repeat for a total of 3 times- 129 sts. Then start raglan shaping as in pattern:

“Right Front-

Shape Raglan
Next Row WS: BO 2 sts, work in pattern to end.
Raglan Decrease Row RS: Work in pattern to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2.
Work 1 row in pattern.
Repeat these 2 rows 21 times more.
BO remaining 5 sts.

Back-

Shape Raglan
BO 2 sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 73 sts.
Raglan Decrease Row RS: K2, ssk, work in pattern to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2.
Work 1 row in pattern.
Repeat these 2 rows 21 times more.
BO remaining 29 sts.

Left Front-

Shape Raglan
Next Row RS: BO 2 sts, work in pattern to end.
Work 1 row in pattern.
Raglan Decrease Row RS: K2, ssk, work in pattern to end.
Repeat these 2 rows 21 times more.
Work 1 row in pattern.
BO remaining 5 sts.“

SLEEVES (Make 2)

I found that knitting the sleeve as written was turing out huge, even before blocking. I decided to alter it to be slimmer-fitting… though as it turned out, I may have gone a little too far in that direction. I have gained a few pounds though, so my mods are probably fine for my normal weight.

I did a tubular CO here- Knitted CO 23 sts, work in st st for 4 rows. Next row: k1, pick up bar from CO edge and purl it all the way across, which will double stitch count to 46 sts. Continue knitting in k1 p1 rib for 2”, ending on WS row.

Next Row (RS): P across.
Next Row (WS): P2tog, p9, p2tog across. 41 sts.

Set-up Row: K1, work 2 sts in Moss Stitch, place marker, work 16 sts in Right Leaning Diagonal Lace Pattern, place marker, work 3 sts in Textured Lace Pattern, place marker, work 16 sts in Left Leaning Diagonal Lace Pattern, place marker, work 2 sts in Moss Stitch, k1.

Work in pattern as established by this row until work measures 7 inches, ending with a WS row.

Sleeve Increase Row: K1, m1, work in pattern to last st, m1, k1.
Work 11 rows in pattern.
Repeat these 12 rows 4 times more. 51 sts.

Work 3 more pattern repeats without any increases. (I did not do this part, but the sleeve length would have been better if I had. I ended up cutting the ribbing off and knitting down from the single garter row to make the ribbing long enough to make the sleeves the correct length.)

Shape Raglan
BO 2 sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 47 sts.

Raglan Decrease Row RS: K2, ssk, work in pattern to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2.
WS: Work 1 row in pattern.
Repeat these 2 rows 17 times more.
BO remaining 11 sts.