Addition: I also rigged up a hat to go with the sweater!

Using a 4.5mm (US 7) needle, but one that seems to fit through the gauge hole with a fair bit of ease. Won’t fit through 4mm (US 6), though, so 4.5mm it is.

Using a sweater of a similar weight that fits her now to adjust pattern to a larger size. These adjustments are for a tallish 7-year-old girl who is not at all chubby.

Child’s measurements:
back length - 14/15”
chest - 26”
arm - 14” from armpit to wristbone.

Sweater finished dimensions (before blocking):
overall length - 17.5” (18.5” after blocking)
chest - 28”
sleeve - 14” measured from where stitches were picked up to start arm.

Mods:

1. CO 72 stitches. Knit ribbing in K2, P2 as directed. I did my right side row of P in the ribbing colour before switching to the sky colour.

2. Switch to “sky” colour. Before starting chart, do rows as follows, starting with a wrong side row (if you end up on a right side, just add another row to bring you to the correct side.:

a) Stockinette stitch - purl row.

b) Stockinette stitch - knit row, increasing 8 stitches evenly. (80 stitches)

c) 5 rows stockinette stitch

d) K row, increasing 10 stitches evenly (90 stitches)

e) P row

f) K row

g) P row

h) K row, increasing 10 stitches evenly (100 stitches)

1. Start patterned chart on 2nd row after setup row. You should have 100 stitches when you start.

2. Do 5 repeats of repeat sections instead of 4

3. Stranding the sheep sections rather than intarsia and making sure to twist every two stitches, alternating between rows as to where the twist lies. Every three stitches made the floats too long and messes up tension.

4. After completing yoke row 34, divided stitches as follows: K36, place 53 stitches on holder or scrap yarn, K74, place 53 stitches on holder or scrap yarn, K36. Thus the sleeve stitches have been placed on scrap yarn and two front panels are knit continuously with the back, back and forth.

5. Knit to 16” total length before starting the bottom band and ribbing.

6. Sleeve: I modified this and then noticed that my modifications were a smidgen snugger than they should have been and therefore modified my modifications. The following are what I finally settled on. I used fewer decreases than I initially tried. In future larger sweaters using this pattern, I would make a gusset at the underarm for a little more flexibility.

7. First sleeve: Pick up 53 stitches on holder. Join MC and place marker. Knit 13 rows stockinette. Next row: decrease 1 each end of row. Knit 7 rows stockinette. Next row: decrease 1 each end of row. Knit 6 rows stockinette. Next row: decrease 1 each end of row. Knit 5 rows stockinette. Next row: decrease 1 each end of row. Continue to Knit 5 rows and decrease on the sixth until there are 40 stitches remaining. This will require that you decrease only one stitch on the last decrease. Knit two rows CC. Knit one row MC. Knit cuff as per original instructions. I switched to 4mm needles for a nice, snug cuff, but do as you see fit. My cuff was 9 rows. Adjust as you like.

8. Button band: I picked up two, skipped one, picked up two, etc. for the button band. So basically I picked up 2 stitches for every three rows. Total picked up was 90st for each band. Button holes were done entirely according to the directions. For this sweater, I used eight buttons.

Sweater is now blocking before the buttons get added and the final stitching gets done (sheep heads and flowers). Have enough of the various yarns left over to make a hat to go with!

Finished stitching and buttons. Need to take final pictures soon!

Update December 28: Resulting sweater, when tried on model, was a little short in the shoulders. I have modified the modifications to incorporate how I fixed this. The changes are all in the sky portion of the sheep chart. The results fit beautifully!!