Box Pleat by Jennifer Dassau

Box Pleat

April 2014
Sport (12 wpi) ?
20 stitches and 28 rows = 4 inches
in St st.
US 6 - 4.0 mm
750 - 1300 yards (686 - 1189 m)
36.5 (38.5, 40.5, 42.5, 44.25, 46.5, 48.25, 50.5, 54.5, 57.25)” bust.
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Originally published in knit.wear Spring/Summer 2014, this sweater pattern is now available as an individual download from my Ravelry store, with expanded instructions and a size range extended to 10 sizes.

A softly structured top with flattering pleats that highlight the face and neck, Box Pleat plays with modern relaxed shaping in a romantic way. The neatly fitted shoulders and neckline emphasize a strong focal point - the central box pleat flanked by right & left side pleats below a pretty scooped neckline. Fitted in the back along princess seams, but with a swingy front shape, Box Pleat flatters all sizes.

Construction: Box Pleat is cast on at the bottom and worked in the round, beginning with a narrow ribbed hem with a rolled edge, to the armholes. Shaping is worked on the back only along the princess lines, then the front and back are divided at the armhole and worked separately to the shoulders, with the extra ease in the front consumed by the pleating at the neckline. The short, fitted sleeves are picked up and worked with short rows for the sleeve caps, then finished with a narrow rib cuff and a rolled edge that matches the casual flirtiness of the bottom hem. Finally, stitches are picked up around the scoop neckline, and worked in K1P1 rib. The yarn used for the sample is discontinued; choose a sportweight wool and bamboo (or silk) blend, to promote good drape and swing. Some suggestions are KnitPicks Galileo, Hikoo by skacel Sueno, and Miss Babs Killington.

Techniques & Skills Used: knit/purl, increasing/decreasing, picking up stitches, short rows, 3-needle bind off.

Size: 36.5 (38.5, 40.5, 42.5, 44.25, 46.5, 48.25, 50.5, 54.5, 57.25)” circumference, to fit 30, (32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 48, 52)” bust; this top is designed to be worn with about 6” of ease, created by the front pleats above the bust.

Yarn: Blue Moon Fiber Arts Woobu (60% merino wool, 40% bamboo; 620 yards/567m/226g), shown in Copperline; 2 (2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 3) skeins, or approximately 750 (800, 850, 900, 950, 1000, 1050, 1100, 1200, 1300) yards of sport weight yarn with good drape, such as from silk or bamboo.

Other Materials: US 6 (4mm) 24” circular needle or size to match gauge; US 6 dpns (2) for pleats and 3-needle bind off; US 6 16” circular needle for sleeves and neckline; Stitch markers (2 color A, 2 color B); Stitch holders (3); Yarn needle.

Gauge: 20 st and 28 rows/4” in stockinette stitch, after blocking.

Thank you to my wonderful tech editor Kate Vanover.