Brown Derby by Thea Colman

Brown Derby

Knitting
October 2022
Worsted (9 wpi) ?
20 stitches and 28 rows = 4 inches
in stockinette and 2x2 rib, cable gauge in pattern
US 7 - 4.5 mm
1200 - 2000 yards (1097 - 1829 m)
37(40.5,43,47)(50,53.5,57.25)(60.25,63.75,69)” 94(103,109.25,119.5)(127,136,145.5)(153,162,175.25) cm around body, worn closed.
English
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Brown Derby is all about a subtle halo, a beautifully heathered color, and some good old texture. It’s a mix of different ribs, a few braids, and garter stitch that elevates a simple cardigan into something a little more unique.

Green Mountain Spinnery’s Mountain Mohair is a yarn with a point of view, so the above elements were used on purpose, to really showcase a yarn with a its own details to share. Each color of Mountain Mohair has a subtle heather and a lovely halo in there. My shade, Spice, is a gorgeous caramel wool, with hints of orange and burgundy in the fiber, as well as a pale mohair that really makes the halo stand out. (It’s 70% wool, 30% mohair, so I get that effect without holding 2 strands!)

So, Brown Derby features thick ribs, bold braids, and panels of textured garter stitch. Details and transitions on Brown Derby (such as the seams, hem and the button band) are designed to be just as bold and visible as the cables themselves, and the fit is loose and easy.

The real star is the back shoulder shaping - which is achieved with just a bit of instruction as you reach the top of your fronts and back. It’s not difficult at all!

And yes, the cables are also quite simple - and both charted and written instructions are in here.


The sweater is worked from the bottom up, separated at armholes and those front and back pieces are then worked separately to end and seamed at shoulders. Once seamed, the button band and sleeves are picked up around the openings. Sleeves are completed in the round, button band is worked flat.

Notes are included about making all the usual modifications, and the sweater is designed so you can adjust body width if needed at each side. Length is quite easy to modify as well, and you can see the different choices my testers made on the testing page once they all post their projects.


Sizing

37(40.5,43,47)(50,53.5,57.25)(60.25,63.75,69)” 94(103,109.25,119.5)(127,136,145.5)(153,162,175.25)cm
Sizes reflect circumference around body, worn closed.

For fit shown, choose a size that provides you with approximately 4-6”/10-15.25cm of positive ease. If choosing an alternate amount of ease, be sure to read both commentary notes and schematic measurements to ensure a good fit.

Yarn

1200(1300,1400,1500)(1600,1700,1750)(1800,1900,2000)yds 1100(1280,1190,1280,1375)(1465,1555,1600)(1645,1740,1830)m
Worsted weight yarn needed.
Sample knit in Spice.

If substituting yarn, use a worsted weight fiber that works to gauge. Swatch in both rib and cable pattern, Note that some fibers will pull in with ribbing more than others. A solid or tweed, a delicate speckle or a semisolid would work best to showcase both the pattern and details.

This pattern can take a little more vareigation than some of my other cable designs, but you still want to go subtle so details don’t get lost.

If modifying, adjust yarn quantity as needed.