Bustier Top by Lisa Naskrent

Bustier Top

Crochet
June 2009
Sport (12 wpi) ?
4 stitches and 16 rows
in 4 closed shells plus 4 open shells
840 - 1320 yards (768 - 1207 m)
34 (36, 38, 40, 42)"
English
This pattern is available from interweave.com for $7.99.

See designers notes for customization.

Finished Size: 34 (36, 38, 40, 42)“ bust circumference. Garment shown measures 34” bust and is modeled with 2” ease.

Yarn: South West Trading Company Terra (50% bamboo, 50% cotton; 120 yd 110 m/1¾ oz 50 g): #436 rose quartz, 7 (8, 9, 10, 11) balls.

Hook: Size F/5 (3.75 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.

Notions: Stitch markers (m), yarn needle, nine (nine, nine, ten, ten) 7⁄16” buttons.

Gauge: 4 closed sh plus 4 open sh and 16 rows = 4” in main body patt.


FAQ: Commonly asked questions
1. I understand that we replace a closed shell with a single crochet, but what happens in the next row? Do we continue with just a sc in each subsequent row until we get to the hip shaping where we replace the shaping sc with the closed shell?

BUST SHAPING:
On the next row, you treat the lone sc as a closed sh, and work an open sh in it (see Notes, second paragraph in magazine).

However, it is not necessarily an error, but for further clarification aside from speculating based solely on the st count, for Bust Shaping when working according to cup sizes, when it tells you “replace 2 closed sh with 1 sc”, that should say “replace 2 additional closed sh with 1 sc.”

So for example cup size A (B) only: Next 4 rows:

Row 1: Replace 2 closed sh with 1 sc -- 2 closed sh replaced

Row 2: Cont in est patt replacing 4 closed sh with 1 sc. For the lone 2 sc sts from Row 1, work an open sh in each of those sc (In Notes, it states to treat each sc as a closed sh and to work an open sh in each. What this does is scatter the shaping sts so they are not necessarily right on top of one another. Also, with the word additional, 2 shaping sts are built on each row. So the shaping sts from Row 1 do not disappear, they are just “reworked” per se in different places in the subsequent row).

Rows 3-4: Rep Row 2, working 6 and then 8 shaping sts respectively instead of 4.

HIP SHAPING
You start off with a total of 8 or 10 sts that have been replaced from the bust shaping (or even more or less if you customized). For hip shaping, work 2 less shaping sts on a row, then work the next row even. (Working even means you work the same number of shaping sts as you did on the previous row). When you come across a lone sc (a shaping st), you work an open sh in it (see Notes, 2nd paragraph). This helps stagger the shaping sts so they are not on top of one another, and at the same time, you are decreasing the number of shaping sts (every other row) to increase the circumference to give room for your hips.

For example, starting with 10 closed sh sts, this is how your shaping would look (if starting with 8 closed sh sts, your Row number of replaced sts would be 2 less than stated below)

Row 1: Work in est patt replacing 8 closed sh with a sc
Row 2: Rep Row 2 (this is considered a working even row)
Row 3: Work even replacing 6 closed sh with a sc
Row 4: Rep Row 4
Row 5: Work even replacing 4 closed sh with a sc
Row 6: Rep Row 6
Row 7: Work even replacing 2 closed sh with a sc
Row 8: Rep Row Row 8.
Row 9: Work even (all shaping sts replaced)

NOTE (CUSTOMIZATION):
When a quantity of shaping sts is given to you for your size, those are merely guides! Try on and adjust as needed. For example in the A (B) size, it states (as shown above) to end with a total of 8 shaping sts. You though may find you need 10, or 12! Or you may only need 4. Cont to try on as you go for all shaping, Bust, waist, hip, etc. And do not be alarmed if you need significantly more shaping sts or less than stated.

Apple shapes, pear shapes, we are are so vastly different. But with this kind of customization from the top down and with no hard and fast rules, you can customize this to its potential to really give you that fit you prefer.

2. When the pattern says there is a 2” ease…does that mean you measure your bust and then add 2” to the pattern (just go up to the next size)

Good question. Measure your bust at widest point, and then add 2 inches to that measurement.