We found a typo at rows 127 and 128. At row 127, right after the first yo and before the last yo, we must K3 instead of K1.
At row 128, right after the first yo and before the last yo, we must K4 instead of K2.
Row 127: k3, slm, yo, k3, work 180 sts as row 1 of the Upside Down heart stitch, slm, k1, slm, work 180 sts as row 1 of the Upside Down heart stitch, k3, yo, slm, k2, sl1 wyf
Row 128: k3, slm, yo, k4, work 180 sts as row 2 of the Upside Down heart stitch, slm, k1, slm, work 180 sts as row 2 of the Upside Down heart stitch, k4, yo, slm, k2, sl1 wyf
I’m sorry for any inconvenience.
3 skeins with different colors of sock yarn (colors: A = 415 yds, B = 101 yds and C = 408 yds)
*** sample shown in Da Fazenda Superwash Sock Yarn (100% Polwarth wool – 100 g/415 yds) colors: A = 201 Acacia Negra, B = 210 Pau Campeche and C = 212 Pau Campeche
Halona is a top down half moon shape shawl with two stylized wings worked one at a time.
We start the work with an easy garter tab.
Worked in garter stitch, the shawl has a few lacy details created by elongated stitches.
When changing colors, I had carried the yarns over the edge as much as possible. I really like the color effect and I really do not enjoy having too many threads to hide J. The only exception is at the second wing, where the yarn color changes happen in the middle of the work.
When changing colors at second wing, right after the W&T (wrap and turn), I knit the first stitch with the old and new colors together. When knitting the second stitch, I work with both strands of the new yarn color. When working those stitches on the next row, I would recommend you to knit them tbl (through the back loop) for a better look finishing.