I know, the cashmere in this hood was an indulgence. It’s just so soft… but I included info in the book on how to substitute. It would work with Cascade 220. The fit and size are flexible because you can make the neck fastening and the hood edging smaller if you want to. There is no gusset. The shaping is done with short rows and decreases. It turns into a cowl, too, when it’s off the head and sitting around the neck.
The shape was inspired by the cloaks worn by heroines in all our favourite literature… Jane Eyre, Sense and Sensibility, Persuasion… the hoods in those days had volume.