This sweater is like a carpet of flowers!** It is great to wear and it catches lots of comments and admiration - and every stitch I put into it was well worth it!
When I look back I almost miss knitting it!
Well, obviously, it takes some time to achieve - but every step of the process appealed so much to me; from choosing the colors, seeing them grow together, wanting to finish some more rounds every day, exploring the steeks (and seeing how great they worked - and how easy they are:)). Trying the sweater on for the first time….
Construction You work the sweater bottom-up and in the round. All patterning is made from RS. The upper body and the upper sleeves are made with steeks towards the arm-openings. When all pieces are worked you cut the steeks and set in the sleeves. This might seem breath-taking, but it sounds much worse than it is! In the end stitches are picked up around neckline to make a short fold-over edge.
You could also work the sweater without the steeks, just following the charts (and making a tiny seam at the top of each sleeve-cap).
Sizes Finished bust-measurements: 35/37/38.5/40/41/43/44/455/47”. The sample is made with 2.5cm/1” of positive ease. All measurements given in the pattern are after blocking/washing.
I used Jamiesons “Shetland Spindrift” to work the sweater.
This yarn comes in balls of 25gr/0.88oz and 108m/115yards. There are so many beautiful colors - you can’t believe it! Choose your favorite colors to make a fabulous one-of-a-kind sweater:)
You will need the following amount of yarn:
MC - 707 Eclipse (dark blue) 8/8/9/10/10/11/11/11/12 balls
CC1 - 322 Lomond (blue grey) 3/3/3/3/4/4/4/4/4 balls
CC2 - 162 Neptune (purple blue) 3/3/3/3/4/4/4/4/4 balls
CC3 -1300 Aubretia (purple) 2/2/2/2/3/3/3/3/3 balls
CC4 - 101 Naural Black 2/2/2/2/3/3/3/3/4 balls
CC5 - 343 Ivory 2/3/3/3/3/4/4/4/4 balls
CC6 - 230 Yellow Ochre 2/2/2/2/2/3/3/3/3 balls
CC7 - 1020 Nighthawk 1/1/1/1/1/1/1/1/2 ball (s)
Material Circular needle 2.5mm/US1.5 (or needles to achieve gauge)for working the body, dpns (or circulars) 2.5mm/US1.5 for working the sleeves. Small circular needle 2.5mm/US1.5 for working the neckline.
Separate holders, stitchmarkers, tapestry needle.
Gauge Keep in mind that this yarn growes a bit after washing/blocking. Finished measurements refers to the garment washed/blocked.
My knitting gauge was 34 sts to 10cm/4”. Washed/blocked gauge was 32 sts to 10cm/4”. I used needle size 2.5mm/US1.5 to achieve this. For best result make a swatch and choose needles accordingly.
The pattern. The pattern guides you through the sweater stitch by stitch in an easy, comprehensible way. All measurements are given in cm’s as well as inches. There is a simple schematic showing which chart to use and where. There are photos to show how to cut the steek. There are lots of useful tips along the way to help you make this sweater successfully. The pattern repeat goes over 24 sts and 62 rows - meaning several charts. Charts for the whole sweater is provided: there are charts for the lower body, for the decreasing part of the upper body, the straight part of the upper body, the entire sleeve as well as the sleeve-cap. All charts are colored. There is a blank grid with the number of squares of the pattern-repeat - for you to play around with your own color-choice (you could print this page out as many times as you need to find the exact color-combination of your dream sweater:)).
Knitting skills Working in the round. Stranded knitting following a chart. Abbreviations used: k2tog, ssk, k1m1. Under the tags for this pattern I have mentioned “Fair Isle” and “Norwegian”. As all patterning of the sweater is a result of my own sketches I cannot really call it either Fair Isle or Norwegian. Furthermore Fair Isle is worked using 2 strands only. In my pattern-repeat of 62 rounds there are 4 rounds using 3 strands.
I named my pattern after my dachshund Kilian. He was the guy that has been more involved in my knitting than anybody else. If you want to know more about him you could take a look at my project page.