Koa

Knitting
September 2013
Worsted (9 wpi) ?
18 stitches and 24 rows = 4 inches
in stockinette stitch
US 7 - 4.5 mm
700 - 1300 yards (640 - 1189 m)
32 (34, 36, 38, 40.5, 44, 47.5, 50.75)" bust
English
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Koa is a shapely cardigan jacket with short sleeves, knit seamlessly in one piece using the contiguous method. Smooth stockinette stitch graces the body, while the fitted stand-up collar, hem and cuffs are garter stitch, with additional texture in the broken rib and garter button band, worked simultaneously with the body.

Acacia koa is a species of flowering tree endemic to the Hawaiian Islands, which has rich golden brown wood; its name in the Hawaiian language, koa, also means brave, bold, fearless, or warrior. Be fearless and fabulous in this chic little jacket.

Construction: Koa uses the contiguous method of construction, in which the fronts and back are worked from the top down using increases along the shoulder line, then seamless sleeves are worked simultaneously with the body once the sleeve cap is reached. The collar is cast on first, and the body grows seamlessly from it, incorporating stitches using short rows, with no picking up. Likewise the front button bands are worked simultaneously. A few increases shape the back neck to prevent it from rising too high. I use lifted increases, which are inconspicuous and make a neat shoulder line; working these increases loosely will help minimize bunching.

Techniques & Skills Used: contiguous construction, longtail CO, backwards loop CO, knit/purl, short rows, increasing/decreasing, lifted increases, simultaneous shaping, buttonholes. Links are included to my short rows, buttonhole and contiguous construction tutorials.

Size: 32 (34, 36, 38, 40.5, 44, 47.5, 50.75)” bust. This fitted cardigan is designed to be worn with a small amount of ease; shown in third size worn with 1” positive ease.

Yarn: Madelinetosh Vintage (100% Superwash Merino; 200 yards/183m); 4 (4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7) skeins, or approximately 700 (750, 800, 900, 1000, 1100, 1200, 1300) yards of worsted weight wool yarn; sample shown in Glazed Pecan.

Other Materials: US 7 (4.5mm) 32” circular needle or size to match gauge; Stitch markers (7); Stitch holders (2); Yarn needle; 7/8” buttons 9 (10, 10, 10, 10, 10, 10, 11); Matching sewing thread and needle.

Gauge: 18 st and 24 rows/4” in stockinette stitch; 18 st and 28 rows/4” in Broken Rib, 18 st and 40 rows/4” in garter stitch, measured after blocking.

Thank you to my lovely test knitters, and to my wonderful tech editor Kate Vanover.