Lined mittens are extra warm because of the insulating space trapped between the layers. The inner layer is soft and warm on your hands while the outer layer helps keep snow and moisture out, and the air caught in between adds a buffer against extreme temperatures. Making mittens double layered also allows you to combine a variety of yarns to take advantage of the properties of each. This fun “inside-out” pattern uses a special, soft yarn against your skin so you feel cozy, and employs a durable, resistant yarn for the outside layer. A round, plied yarn ensures the springy ribbed cuff is positively snow-proof.

SIZES
Teen/Adult S (Women/Adult M, Men/Adult L)
To fit hand circumference of 7 (8, 9) inches

YARN SUGGESTIONS
Choose three yarns of DK or Light Worsted weight.
Outer layer- Sample uses handspun wool. Recommended yarn is NON-superwash wool or wool/mohair blend, plied. If it felts readily, that’s OK. If one of your yarns is going to be slightly thicker than the others, it should be this one. Look for something a little “rustic”- something a little scratchy will be more durable than a soft merino. It won’t make the mittens scratchy.
Cuff- Choose a springy, plied wool that makes nice ribbing. This is your workhorse wool. This yarn will touch your wrists, so make sure it’s something you can tolerate next-to-skin. Sample uses Cascade 220.
Liner- Pick something luxurious, warm and fuzzy! The sample is made in DK weight 100% alpaca, but I would also use blends of bison, camel, possum, quivut, angora- these yarns are made from the animals’ undercoats or hollow fibres, so they are excellent insulators. Sometimes these fibers are available in laceweight yarn, which can give you some nice options to double up or carry along two yarns together.

GAUGE
26 sts = 4” (10 cm) in stockinette stitch in outer layer yarn with larger needles.

RECOMMENDED NEEDLES
Two sizes of DPN’s or circular needles suitable for small diameter projects in the round.
Sample uses US 5 (3.75 mm) and US 4 (3.5 mmn). Switching to smaller needles helps the liner fit inside the outer layer, and it helps keeps the cuffs fitted.
Two stitch markers are also used.

NOTE ABOUT WEAVING IN ENDS
Because this mitten is self-lining, the “wrong side” of the work becomes inaccessible once you close the tip of the mitten. Therefore, it’s necessary to leave the tails from joining yarns lying to the RIGHT SIDE of the work and weave them in using duplicate stitch. A few of the tails should be woven in as you go instead of at the end of the project, and these will be pointed out in the instructions below.

TECHNIQUES USED
Judy’s Magic Cast On
https://knitty.com/ISSUEspring06/FEATmagiccaston.html
Backwards Loop Cast On
https://kristentendyke.com/blogs/tutorials/tutorial-how-t...
Weaving in Ends with Duplicate Stitch
https://knitty.com/ISSUEfall04/FEATfall04TT.html
Lanolizing Your Finished Project
https://babeegreens.com/pages/how-to-lanolize-wool-and-ca...

DESIGNER’S NOTE
This construction leaves the thumb of the lining in reverse stockinette while the rest of the liner is stockinette. It doesn’t show, but if the inconsistency is going to bother you, PU the sts for the thumb of the liner purlwise and work all the thumb shaping instructions in reverse stockinette (purl all sts in the round and p2tog for the decreases).