M. Polo Tote Bag
Designed by John Ravet for The Fiber Factor and skacel collection, Inc.
SKILL LEVEL: Experienced
YARN WEIGHTS: Worsted, Light Worsted, & Sport (Mohair)
SIZE AND MATERIALS:
Approx 7.5” Wide x 18” Long x 14.5” Deep.
In-Silk by Schoppel, 75% Merino Wool, 25% Silk, 219 yards / 100g. Shown in MC #7130 (Beige Heather - 4 hanks); C1 #0880 (Nearly Black - 1 hank); C2 #7181 (Chestnut - 1 hank).
Kenzie by Hikoo, 50% New Zealand Merino, 25% Nylon, 10% Angora, 10% Alpaca, 5% Silk Noils, 160 yds / 50g. Shown in C3 #1003 (Lamington - 1 skein).
Kid-Seta Melange by Schulana, 70% Kid Mohair, 30% Silk, 230 yds / 25g. Shown in C4 #121 (Brownstone - 1 ball).
Optional: Kid-Seta by Schulana, 70% Kid Mohair, 30% Silk, 230 yds / 25g. Shown in C5 #31 (Charcoal - 1 ball).
6 mm (approx. US 10) straight or circular needles or size needed to obtain gauge
JUL Bag Handles - HR-7-30T (shown in Color 03 - Claret Red);
tapestry needle; sewing needle; wood or metal yard stick (or other hard straight edge); 22” double slider purse zipper in color to match C1; 6 bag feet; plastic canvas (2 sheets 12” x 18” x 7 mesh); fabric remnant, cotton (20” x 16”); sewing threads, in colors to match MC and C1;waste thread in color strongly contrasting MC and C1; blocking pins and board; steam iron. (optional) scrap leather, in color to match Bag Handles; waxed cotton thread, in color to match bag handles.
All yarn and needles distributed by skacel collection, inc.*
Gauge: (Pre-felted): approx 14 sts and 20 rows = 4” x 4”. See
Designer’s Note #6.
To save time, check your gauge and read all instructions thoroughly before beginning.
1) All edge stitches are worked in Stockinette Stitch. To ensure even felting, do not slip selvedge stitches.
2) Stranded knitting creates a pattern on the inside of the bag. When working Charts 1 & 2, always work one yarn over and one yarn under across each row. In the sample, the yarn knit as a single stitch within the pattern repeat is carried above the other yarn.
3) Though some stitches are worked single-stranded In Charts 3 & 4, the majority of the stitches are worked by randomly alternating 2 strands of C4, 2 strands of C5, and 1 strand each of C4 and C5 held together.
4) When working Charts 3 & 4, precise adherence to the charted pattern is not required, EXCEPT at edges where pieces are joined. The 4 columns of stitches nearest the seam are to be worked as indicated. Row and column numbers are for orientation on the panels, and notes indicate where to begin.
5) Prior to felting, all yarn ends must be lightly woven into the knitting. Work ends into 3 or 4 purl bumps in a straight line on WS - do not reverse direction and do not knot. During felting, as each piece nears its final dimensions, check yarn ends and clip as necessary. The final minutes of felting will blend them into the fabric.
6) While exact gauge of pre-felted pieces is not necessary, careful blocking after felting creates the best result. Top and bottom edges are to be blocked using a straight edge, easing fabric from center of fabric to align with the straight edge and placing blocking pins at least every inch (2.5cm). Block sides along a straight edge in the same manner. Should the sides be a bit wide after felting, the measurements can be adjusted during finishing.
7) Hand felting is highly recommended, as featured yarns quickly develop into a felted fabric and frequent checking of size will ensure success.
8) Machine sewing is highly recommended to install zipper, to sew bag panels together, and to finish pocket.
9) When using ladder stitch in finishing, work halfway through felted pieces. Stitches should not be visible.
10) Ladder Stitch: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5CjOXMuTFXo