Designed as a menstrual cup cozy, it can be used for other small items such as tampons, or a phone, mp3 player, etc. The feeder tentacles form a carry strap and the opening closes with a draw string.
The pattern uses double knitting techniques, circular knitting, and I-cord. It also requires a 7”x14” piece of fabric for the lining, buttons for the eyes, and some sewing experience. A template for the lining is provided, but it needs to be enlarged before use.
I’ve added the revised pattern as a pdf download, but it may still be incomprehensible. Please ask if you have any questions!
Regarding the book version:
Note: Under the “special stitches” section of the pattern, it starts with how to make a bobble. There are no bobbles in this piece, however. There’s nothing missing.
row 8) sl1, m1, k1, (k1 below, sl top st), (k1, sl1) 3 times, (k1 below, sl top st), k1, m1, k1
Some people have indicated some confusion with the (KSI) notation. It’s just a notation for the placement of an increase while maintaining the double knitting section. Whenever you see a (KSI), look at the last stitch which was knit. Just count back 2 stitches on the right hand needle to get to the correct column of stitches. The correct stitch will be followed by a slipped purl stitch and the working yarn will be in front of that slipped purl stitch.
Now, look at that last worked knit stitch, again. It’s not the stitch on the needle, but the stitch below the one on the needle. I lift the left leg of that stitch below, and knit into the back of it. Alternately, I have also lifted the left leg of the stitch below that one, and simply knit into it.
Either method of increasing results in two knit stitches (the original one, and the increase) with a slipped purl stitch in between them. Continue on in pattern as written.
Any increase works as long as the double knitting pattern of working the knits and slipping the purls with the yarn in front is maintained, but it is critical to make sure that the increase is worked on the “near” yarn strand of the knit side of the fabric, or else the body of the squid won’t separate properly. This is why I work the increase into a knit stitch. There’s no way for the strands to get mixed up if the increase is worked into it.
Price quoted is for entire book.
Photo by Al Parrish, courtesy of F+W Publications, Inc.
Anticraft: Knitting, Beading, and Stitching for the Slightly Sinister contains eight knitting projects, eight crochet projects, three sewing projects, three jewelry projects, one duct tape project, one beading project, and one cross stitch project.
Errata can be found here: The Anticraft