Umbra & Penumbra by Jennifer Thompson

Umbra & Penumbra

Knitting
August 2014
Sport (12 wpi) ?
25 stitches and 48 rows = 4 inches
in slip stitch pattern
US 5 - 3.75 mm
1800 - 3020 yards (1646 - 2761 m)
32 (35.25, 40.25, 43.5, 47.25, 51.75, 55.75, 60.25, 64)"
English

Errata Update
In Gradient 4, the pattern should read:
Work in pattern established by Rows 1-2 above 1 (1, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 5, 5) times total, then work Row 2 once more.
Transfer remaining 0 (0, 4, 6, 8, 12, 14, 18, 22) sts from spare needle to working needle.
Round 2 of Yoke Increases (Gradient 4): (P1, slwyif) to 1 st before m, k1, sm.

Frequently Asked Questions
INCREASES: CAN YOU CLARIFY THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE INCREASES FOR M1R, M1L, M1R-P, M1L-P?
Below are some tutorials and videos for how to work the increases.

M1L/M1R: Lifted Increases
M1L-P: Video
M1R-P: Video

SEAM: WHY IS THE SEAM AT THE FRONT OF THE SWEATER? CAN I MODIFY THE PATTERN TO HAVE THE SEAM AT THE BACK?
The seam is only at the front during the neckband and short row portion of the yoke. After the short rows, the seam will move to the side and should be hidden by the raglan increases. A good blocking should help to smooth out the stitches of the seam

YOKE - SHORT ROWS - CAN YOU EXPLAIN THE START OF THE SHORT ROWS ACROSS THE YOKE?
The short rows are worked back and forth (rather than in the round). At the end of the neckband section, the pattern instructs you to slip a certain number of stitches onto a spare needle. That spare needle is basically acting as a stitch holder while you work the short rows across the working needle, gradually incorporating the stitches of the spare needle onto the working needle. At the beginning and end of the odd numbered rows, you will be slipping one stitch from either end of the spare needle to the working needle.

YOKE – SHORT ROWS – WHAT DOES IT MEAN “P TOGETHER WITH LOOP ONE ROW DOWN”?
When the instructions direct you to “p together with loop one row down”, the intent of that is to close the hole that would otherwise be created across the short row. You won’t be increasing or decreasing. After slipping one stitch from the spare needle to the working needle, if you were to just start purling across, a hole would be created – – however, if you also pick up the loop from one row down from your recently knit stitches, and purl that one with the recently slipped stitch, that will help to avoid the hole.

Umbra & Penumbra is a top-down pullover exploring the effects of light and dark in an “ombré” style. Typically used to describe celestial shadows (such as solar eclipses), umbra and penumbra refer to two parts of a shadow and may also be used to describe levels of darkness.

Featuring a mock turtleneck, Umbra & Penumbra is worked seamlessly in a slip-stitch pattern, using the effects of color dominance to showcase color gradients. In using two colors for each stripe of the slip-stitch pattern, one color will be dominant (or, more pronounced) and by alternating which yarn is dominant, more color gradients may be achieved in subsequent stripes.

Pattern Difficulty: Advanced Beginner/Intermediate. Techniques Include: slip stitches, increases and decreases, knitting in the round.

Short rows are worked at the yoke and shaping at the waist to create a better fit. The slip-stitch pattern produces a stretchy fabric that is well-suited to both a relaxed fit and a more fitted fit. The model in these photos is wearing the sweater with 2” of positive ease, but zero ease or a bit of negative ease would flatter as well, depending on the preference of the wearer.

The pattern calls for six colors of yarn, resulting in 16 gradient stripes. Combining a sport weight yarn and the slip-stitch pattern, the fabric is lofty without being bulky or dense. Wool of the Andes is a great workhorse yarn that will keep you warm without needing special treatment. As a pullover, Umbra & Penumbra would be an ideal sweater for a fall hiking and camping trip as well as a cozy fireside sweater.