The fabric made by the yarn and stitch pattern is incredible. It looks woven and dense, but it’s incredibly light and airy, with a wonderful hand. Even knitters would have a hard time believing this is hand-knit and not woven.

My gauge was spot-on!

My husband made the cone holders out of 2x6 blocks of wood and 1” copper pipes. They worked great!

I did all seaming using just the two strands of Tsumugi Silk, for less bulk.

The completed jacket weighs 350 grams. There was plenty of yarn left on the cones - at least 20 grams of each yarn.

I bought 3/4” buttons, which are kind of on the large side for the fabric, but I liked how they looked better than smaller ones.

Modifications: Other than to correct errors, the only change I made was stabilize the edge of the pocket with a crocheted chain stitch - not over the outer edge, but on the wrong side of the fabric, about 1/4” in from the edge. It’s too invisible to do a photo of it, but it’s this technique.

Pattern Errata:

1) The pattern has an incorrect US size listed for the smaller needle (used for the ribbing). Based on the Japanese and metric sizes given, it should be US 9, not US 6.

2) There appears to be an error with the shoulder shaping on the front pieces - if you follow the decreases as written, you will end up with 1 stitch left instead of 3. I’m sure it should be the same as the shaping for the back pieces:

The shaping for the shoulders on the back piece are:
3 LV
2-3-3
2-4-1
and for the front, it’s:
3 LV
2-3-1
2-4-3
I think the last number on the decreases (the number of times to perform the decrease) for the front shoulder were accidentally reversed.

3) The collar dimensions are wrong, which a couple of other people mentioned in their projects. I analyzed the schematic, wondering if there was just a number transposition like with the shoulder decreases. I noticed that the schematic divides the collar into 4 sections, but only lists 3 measurements - and I figured out a way to make it work perfectly.

To correct the schematic, it should be 22 st (5.6”) from outer edge to shoulder seam mark, 17 st (4.4”) from shoulder seam mark to center line, 17 st (4.4”) from center line to shoulder seam mark, then 22 st (5.6”) from shoulder seam mark to outer edge. That means casting on an extra 12 stitches (total of 78). The overall length should be 20”.

To sew the collar into place, mark the center line and the shoulder seam lines of the collar with pins (the shoulder markers should be 4.4” from each edge). Mark the center back of the jacket at the neckline with another pin. Then pin the collar in place on the jacket, matching up the center back markers and the shoulder seam markers. The front edges of the collar should be about 1” (3 cm) in from each edge of the front panels.

It will look like the collar is too tight at the outer edge, but it works - once the seam is done, the collar should stand upwards a little bit from the seam, and then lay down nicely.

I did a crochet seam, working from the inside of the jacket. However you do it, the “raw” edges of the seam should be on the inside of the jacket.

Since the collar stands up slightly before curving down, the seam will be nicely hidden if worn down, and of course, it also won’t show if you wear the collar up around your neck.

I put the collar on so that the right side of the fabric would show when it’s worn down, since that’s how I’ll wear it most. If you plan to wear it up as in the the pattern photos, you may want to attach it the other way.

4) Pockets - The written directions say to use the larger needles, but the fabric comes out way too loose and doesn’t match the dimensions. I used the smaller needles (US 9), and they came out exactly to the specified dimensions. Also, the written instructions say to start decreasing after row 14, which makes no sense. I just followed the decreases as indicated on the schematic.

IntSweMoDo #17