Absolutely LOVE the motif, but somewhat disappointed by the pattern. The chart is clear (although the horizontal repeat is not marked), but the written instructions don’t provide much information and the English version needs “polishing”, to say the least.
It’s not mentioned anywhere, but I think the transition from the collar to the lace pattern looks much nicer if you start your ribbing with a purl.
On row 2, the pattern doesn’t mention it (unless you had a look at the chart first) but you shouldn’t work the last purl before each markers.
Also, if you’ve worked a raglan sweater before you can somewhat deduce where to separate the sleeves, but the pattern doesn’t say it anywhere, and it also doesn’t tell you what to do with the sleeve stitches.
The pattern says “Keep the markers as you will need them for the decreasing and increasing on the sides”, but there are NO instructions provided for waist shaping. NONE, no written instructions nor any charts giving any information as to how many increase or decrease rows are needed, or how to work them in pattern, or how many rows apart they need to be.
Also not mentioned but when you get ready to start the ribbing, make sure you end with a row 2 or 6 for a better transition.
Lastly, on the sleeve section, the pattern says to cast on 3 sts, place a marker and cast on 3 more stitches, but I guess it should be PICK UP?? Unless you want to seam the underarms afterwards…
Either way I feel robbed to have paid 5 euros for this, I should have just looked up the motif and written the pattern myself.
--------------------Mods--------------------
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I didn’t have a 3 mm needle, so I worked the collar a little differently. I cast on using the long tail method on size 3.25 mm needle, worked the first 3 rows of ribbing with size 2.5 mm needle then switched back to 3.25 mm needle for the remaining 3 rows of the ribbing.
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The sleeves at 66 sts were gonna be too tight for me, also I didn’t quite like the body to sleeve proportions and didn’t like the fact that the sleeve increases were worked every other row then every 4 rows. To solve ALL these issues, I placed the markers at 54-18-54-18 sts, then worked increases every two rows 27 times total, for 108-72-108-72 sts.
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No waist shaping for me, although I’m not sure if that’s really a “mod” or not considering no waist shaping instructions are provided.
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For the sleeves, I worked 2 full pattern repeats (16 rows) after picking up stitches, then started decreasing 2 sts every 4 rows on a lace row until I reached 56 sts. I’ll try to find some time to chart this. Instead of doing an inch of regular ribbing, I decided to do 1.5” of brioche on 2.5 mm needle then bind off with the Icord method.
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Brioche stitch and German short rows are a match made in heaven so I’m switching the regular 1x1 rib bottom edge for brioche stitch front/back panels shaped longer around the back with short rows.
------------------Progress------------------
28/03/2016
Just separated the sleeves, yay!
03/04/2016
I put the body on hold and started working the sleeves. Once the sleeves are done, I’ll use all the yarn I have to make this sweater as long as I can.
07/04/2016
Second sleeve started, yay!
09/04/2016
Second sleeve finished, back to the body now.
14/04/2016
61ish grams left, time to start the bottom rib. Still working in brioche stitch on 2.5mm needle, I’ll separate the front and back and work short row shaping to achieve a shorter front and longer back. Use no more than 36 grams for the back &18 grams for the front to have at least 6 grams left for an Icord bind off.
15/04/2016
Done, with 10 grams to spare. Woohoo! Now I just have to weave in the ends and wash it.
--------------------Yarn--------------------
As all linen yarns, it’s a little rough to the touch while knitting, but the yarn definitely feels stronger and more resistant than Flax by FibraNatura, so I’m very happy about my purchase so far!