Understanding the Lace Charts
Because I have been asked a couple of times, I thought it would be helpful to explain in detail how to read the lace charts.
Half of the necessary instructions for the lace border are on the top of page 3; the other half of the instructions are in the Key on page 5, where it says the outlined section of each chart is repeated 3 times. This means there are small repeated sections inside large repeated sections
To work the first row of the lace, you do the following steps:
- Using the Right End Lace chart, work stitches 1-16.
- Using the Center Lace chart, work the stitches inside the rectangle 3 times. Then work the stitches outside the rectangle 1 time. This is 1 repeat of the Center Lace.
- Repeat Step 2. four more times. Once you have done this, you will have 5 repeats of the Center Lace.
- Using the Left End Lace chart, work the stitches inside the rectangle 3 times. Then work the stitches outside the rectangle 1 time. This is 1 repeat of the Left End Lace.
The total stitch counts for each section of the first row will look like this:
Right End Lace = 16 sts
Center Lace = (12 sts x 3 + 14 sts) x 5 = (36 sts + 14 sts) x 5 = 50 sts x 5 = 250 sts
Left End Lace = (12 sts x 3 + 15 sts) x 1 = (36 sts + 15 sts) x 1 = 51 sts x 1 = 51 sts
I wasn’t particularly fond of the way the charts for the lace were laid out, but after carefully considering how I might re-create them myself in Excel, I realized that there wasn’t really a better option available to the designer without resorting to using multiple colors for the repeats, which I understand isn’t desirable since many people print in greyscale only. So I knit from them as printed and relied on an index-card-sized Post-It note to track my place.
Next Row (RS)
After you’ve repeated rows 18-27 and cut the main color, pay close attention to the instructions for the Next Row (RS). Although at first glance it looks identical to the earlier increase rows (Row 18 or even Row 12), it is not exactly the same: you only increase 11 stitches, not 12 stitches as you had previously.
Moving Markers
The pattern notes on page 2 state that “the markers will have to be moved forward 1 stitch on Rows 1, 5 and 7 to compensate for sk2p double decrease.” This is not completely accurate: you will move your stitch markers on Rows 1, 5 and 9 to compensate for the sk2p.
Binding Off
For the picot bind off, I used the cable cast on instead of the knit cast on to add stitches, as I find it easier to work quickly and neatly. I went up two needle sizes for the bind off since I’m a very tight knitter, though I’m not sure if it matters much since a picot bind off is so stretchy anyway. I debated making smaller picots (CO 2 stitches, BO 4 stitches), but my husband persuaded me to knit it as written and I like how it turned out.
Finished Measurements
Width: 50.5 inches
Drop: 18.5 inches