You will not see the co for this moebius when you wear it and the top will fold down over the lower half showing the right side of both edges so having it right side/wrong side equal won’t matter at all for this moebius. That being said I would make the knit stitch between the YO’s a knit and the stitches between the increases of the chevron in garter pattern than work the lace edging in stockinette. I do like the way mine turned out but i spend more time than needed making the both sides attractive as one side won’t be seen anyway.
cast on 165 stitches (330 total) using size 4 needles. I cast on this amount so that my stitches were offset by 1/2 repeat on the other side and it allows the chevron pattern to flow seamlessly from both sides.
I knit one complete round before I started working in pattern. the cat’s co is quite tight so I wanted a round to get it all flowing.
I am doing this in garter stitch to make it more mirror reversible as both sides are facing you at the same time. to do this I purl the resting rows but I am knitting the stitch above the decreases
I am working yo’s instead of the lifted increases.
I am purling the stitch between the yo’s (to make a column of knit stitches on the reverse side which line up with the column of knit stitches from the decreases.
instead of the s1 k2tog psso. I am working it as a slip 2 tog knit-wise, k1, psso so that the center stitch stays on top creating a column of knit stitches at the line of decrease.
I’m using a lace weight instead of sock yarn so will post my co adjustments as I figure it out. I’m trying this on size 4 needles 1st. I have to do my gauge swatch before I get going.
I plan to use Cat’s moebius co instead of the one stated in the pattern which is a regular co and you pick up stitches from he other side.