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Featherweight Cardigan

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May 14 2013
June 21 2013
Project info
Featherweight Cardigan
Featherweight Cardigan by Hannah Fettig
Needles & yarn
US 4 - 3.5 mm
US 7 - 4.5 mm
US 6 - 4.0 mm
Shibui Knits Staccato
573 yards in stash
Cranberry Fiber Arts in S. Hamilton, Massachusetts
Shibui Knits Staccato
382 yards in stash

Read notes on size before starting your own!

This sweater has narrow sleeves as well as a short armscye!

MODS: Longer body, shaping in back, mitered lace hem. Stitch pattern used is Old Shale (aka Feather and Fan). You’ll have to accomodate the pattern to fit your size. My notes are for the size 35.25” ONLY.

Both yarn lots look pretty much the same, one might be slightly darker than the other but you really have to stare in bright sunlight to notice. Think I’ll save the 2 other hanks for the bottom and collar/band. I haven’t decided what kind of band I want, but I’m going to miter the hem with the band so it’s continuous. Notes below on that…

5/14: Cast on. Using size 4 for WS rows only because I purl loose.

5/20: Finished raglan increases. I should have checked the measurements and stitch count of this before starting. I did not realize it was meant for twig arms. I’m going to have to finnagle something because these arms are TINY! Like…REALLY TINY!! The frame itself is too large for the small circumference of the arm. It’s supposed to have 3.25” of positive ease, yet this seems to be only for the body of it, specifically the back and nothing else. Wish this were listed somewhere in the pattern…

5/24: Ripped! Restarting with needle size 7 and same body size. I had gauge with 6’s but the fabric felt a little too dense. Also, the armhole length was extremely short. I tried it on after dividing the body, had the sleeves on some scrap yarn, but the underarms were just digging in too much. They need a good inch of length added so I’m hoping a larger needle will help with that. Gauge so far with size 7, still spot on for stitch count but the row count is now 34/4”. It was around 36/4” with the smaller needles, so this does infact run small in that area.

6/10: Divide sleeves from body:
Work RS row as written.
Next row (WS)- P across
Next row (RS)- K62, PM, K2tog, K42, SSK, PM, K62
Work 7 rows in ST st
Repeat last 8 rows 5 more times - 12 sts decreased

Next row (RS)- K to M, sl M, M1R, K to next M, M1L, sl M, K to end
Work 7 rows in ST st
Repeat last 8 rows 4 more times, then work 1 more increase row. 12 sts increased. You will now be ready to start the mitered hem which starts by picking up and knitting 98 sts along the right front, 54 sts along the sleeves and back neck, 98 sts along the front left and finishing up with 170 sts along the entire bottom of sweater - 420 sts total. Place markers on either end of the bottom 170 sts. This will mark the points where you make 2 increases on either side of the marker in the same manner as done with the raglan shaping. Row should read out as follows:

Round 1:
PU and K 98 sts along right front, 54 sts along tops of sleeves and back of neck, and 98 sts along left front, PM, K 170 sts along entire bottom hem, PM and join for round.

Switch to size 6 needles for the remainder of hem.

Round 2: Work row 2 of chart, making increases at mitered points (do increases in same manner as raglan incs) Note: The stitch pattern is worked between each st marker, not after the sts next to the markers as they would be normally

Round 3: Work row 3 of chart for fronts and neck. Stop when you’ve come to the bottom hem and do the following:

Sl M, k1, k2tog x2, yo k1 x6, k2tog x5, k1, (yo k1 x6, k2tog x6, yo k1 x6, k1, k2tog x5, yo k1 x6, k2tog x5, k1) repeat between parentheses 2 more times, but ending your last k2tog section as k2tog x2, k1 = 8 sts increased along the bottom to fit pattern. End of round. You could probably do these increases on the first pickup round, in which case it would read out as m1, k20, m1, k24, m1, k26, m1, k24, m1, k26, m1, k24, m1, k20, m1 - for the bottom only between both markers. I just chose to do mine within the pattern.

Rounds 4-24: Continue chart, then bind off in Purl.

6/16: Sleeves:
Work as written, but instead of picking up 4 sts, cast them on - they will be sewn together afterwards but this creates a little more ease in the underarm and avoids some of that extra fabric on the body where it’s joined (There’s still some in mine but not as much as if I had picked up the sts). For mine I worked a total of 4 decreases - 54 sts. After working the 4th decrease work 18 rounds in ST st, then switch to size 6 needles and use Feather & Fan stitch for 5 pattern repeats, bind off in Purl. Just use the 18 sts within the repeat on the chart I have.

Leftover yarn: 1oz. (about half a skein). Forgot to get measurements of it but I think it’s close to the size I was making. My fullbust is 36” (I’m in the plaid top) and I think I could almost meet the fronts with this pulled to body size, my mom is a bit smaller so this fits her perfectly! Her arms are much thinner than mine too, so the issue of the sleeves being tight isn’t so bad on her, but you can definitely see how much of an ease difference there is between body and arms. Kind of strange. And with the stitch pattern used I did 2 less decreases for the sleeves so I had 4 extra stitches. I wish I had brought my blocking mats to my parents house, so I was only able to lay this flat to dry. The lace didn’t quite get the scalloped edge I was hoping for.

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May 14 2013
June 21 2013
About this pattern
from knitbot
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About this yarn
by Shibui Knits
70% Merino, 30% Silk
191 yards / 50 grams
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  • Project created: April 27, 2013
  • Finished: June 25, 2013
  • Updated: July 5, 2013
  • Progress updates: 2 updates