My own mods: short sleeves
Cast on with a provisional cast-on right after the last decrease round. Then knit for two inches. Then start the increases. I did one less increase, so every 5th row instead. Then until piece from prov. cast on ends up being 9.25 inches to the sleeve/bust line. I also provisionally cast on the sleeves, putting the 8 underarm stitches on waste yarn and casting on 8 less than called for on the pattern for the top part (wider part) of the arm. I continued as written until I got to the part after the pleats, changing only the number knit before the pleats begin as I knit 1 fewer increases so will have 4 less stitches to work with. I also ended up doing two 3 stitch pleats for the middle two pleats on EACH side of the middle, leaving me with 260 stitches for the extra small size. Then I followed these mods…
I did 8 of the 13 sets of decreases, and then placed the center stitches (above the folds) onto waste yarn Then I did the remaining sets of decreases, plus matching decreases on either side of my center stitches, going back and forth, and decreasing on the RS (so, decrease, knit to just before marker, decrease as normal across markers, knit to end, decrease, turn and purl back), following up with the short rows as per the pattern.
THEN my mods: I kept doing short rows until I had used all of the stitches on the arms and down into the front of the sweater. When I reached the stitches that I had been holding, there was a big hole there, which I hadn’t planned on …so I had to get creative in picking and knitting together various stitches in the rows below in order to hide the gap between my short rowed section and the held stitches. I continued across the front to beginning of round and knit 5 rows in k2,p2 rib on the smaller needle. Bound off using knitted bind of with the larger needle…
After binding off, I did the sleeves, picking up from the provisional cast-on and knit them for 7 rows with 5 rows of a 2x2 ribbed cuff(done on smaller needles). I bound off with the surprisingly stretchy bind off.
I picked up the provisional cast on and increased every inch three times. Then I just knit until it was long enough for me. I did 9 rows of 2x2 rib(done on smaller needles) followed by the surprisingly stretchy bind off.