May 8: I cast on 320 stitches for largest size. This is XL per pattern and is probably a European XL. At a 44-46” circumference this will be more like a North American L. (Assuming my yarn works to something like required tension.) See final dimensions at end of notes.

I plan to mix up all 3 skeins of silk gems as I go.

May 10: I am halfway through the first 34 row repeat. This will not be a fast knit with smallish yarn and my 2.5m needle (likely to go to 2.25m at waist). But I am liking the yarn knit in this lace. I have all 3 balls tied in and I work 2 or 3 rounds of each then switch. Carrying yarns not in use on the back. No point in breaking at each change.

May 11 am: First vertical repeat complete (34 rounds) Looks good. My tension is smaller than pattern but will fit me. Will be a slow knit but I like it.

May 13: I have 1.5 vertical repeats and have used 80g of my yarn. Did some calculations and it looks like I need more yarn. Clearly my Gems is smaller than specified yarn. Also I am making mine considerably longer. I want about 15” to underarm and largest size in pattern is 10.75”.

May 14: Have 5.5” (from bottom of scallop) 56 rounds complete. Just switched to 2.25 needles to reduce for waist. Fingers crossed..

May 21: At 8.5 inches I switched back to 2.5m needles. I now have the additional 2 skeins of yarn I ordered. They are close but not exactly like the first 034 (dark) and 0909 (teal/turquoise). Not worried. Will be more interesting.

May 25: About one more vertical repeat (32 rounds) and I can start adding stitches for sleeves and commence working back and forth in rows, back first.

May 28: Unblocked, I have a hair more than 14” and I have just completed the 5th vertical repeat. Will now separate for back and front and commence sleeves, working in rows not rounds. I cheated and broke my working yarn and moved two repeats to adjust where back and front commences, choosing my fave colour combinations for the front. There is something appealingly dark and witchy about these colours. Hence the project name change.

Just for fun: 5 vertical repeats = 4 repeats X 32 rounds plus first repeat of 34 rounds, a total of 162 rounds of 320 stitches each for a total of 51,840 stitches. But who is counting?..

June 1: Back is finished. Worked exactly 3 vertical repeats. (3 × 32 = 96 rounds, increasing one edge stitch for arms on each side every 4th round. At end I had increased 28 stitches each side. I worked as one complete extra repeat each side plus another 8 stitches. (So total of 120 to start plus 56 stitches for 176 stitches at end)

June 5: Finished right front. For neck castoffs I decreased 23 stitches- 3 plus one whole 20 stitch repeat. At shoulder I had 3 complete sets of 20 stitches to seam. A result of 23 decreased for neck and 28 added for cap sleeves. As it turns out I could have cast on fewer sleeve stitches. Hard to know with my smaller gauge. When blocked I may turn under a few stitches at centre arm. I worked right side with mostly lighter blue green. Plan to do left side in darker shade. Shall see what happens. Getting close…

June 7: Completed left front then worked neck edge per pattern. Soaked and blocked it. Now wish I had followed my instincts and reduced stitches at back neck. I think my 45 stitches at each side of front is fine. I will redo the band which is just one round of purl and cast off. Main thing I think fit is good.

I pulled off cast off round and purl round but left pick up stitches. On purl round reknit I K 2tog every 5th stitch on the back neck open stitches and reduced 2 stitches on front open stitches. When casting off I reduced the back neck by another 4 stitches, so about 20 stitches reduced in all. Now the neck fits better although I still added crochet tabs with dome fasteners to the back of the 3 needle bind off seam to secure top to bra straps. I find projects with deeper necklines in cotton, linen or silk, as here, frequently require help to keep from bra straps from showing.

I should have stopped adding stitches for the sleeves. I think I could have done without the last 10 or so increases. My tension was small so many more rounds were worked than the pattern intended. Hence more pickups. I folded the fabric back around the armholes and tacked it down to inside. Now the sleeves fit well.

It turns out I would have had barely enough yarn without the extra, however the dye lots are a little different and I like having the extra streaks of colour not in the first part of top. So I have part balls left to make edgings, or even a small indoor scarf at a later
date.

I was surprised how much length was gained when blocked. This wasn’t garter stitch so I didn’t think it would get so long. But I don’t think it is too long.

Over all I am super happy with this project. Love the way it looks and feels when I wear it.

Final measurements seamed and blocked.

Length: 25”
Width: at bust 40” waist - 38” hips - 40”

These measurements shouldn’t fit me but they do. (I knew it would fit as I tried on many times while working.) I guess the lace just expands to accommodate me. So I am calling this Size Large, due to finished measurements, al though I followed the XL instructions.

I feel certain I will work this piece again.