08-11-2020

Note: CO 64 st (dec to 60 st after cuff) but it creates a reasonably wide leg. So went to 56 st for foot width.

The way I did this was to decrease one st at the end of the last round of the circular leg knitting (before you start the purl row that sets up the heel flap). Then also dec 1 st at the end of that purl row that precedes starting the heel flap - at that point you’ll have 28 st on the heel flap - what you want (1/2 of 56st)

Don’t forget: When you finish turning the heel / start to create the gusset, you’ll need to decrease one st at either side of the top of the foot stitches (those that have been waiting on the cable while you turned the heel). Then you’ll also have 28 st on that part of the foot - 1/2 of 56, the number you want to get to…

At 8.5” do toe decreases.

08-11-2020

Sock 1 took 55 g - by far the heaviest sock I’ve ever made. Also means I won’t get 2 pairs from this skein (unless I contrast heel, toe and cuff - and I don’t have any other yarn that’s of this grist or gauge (it being very odd hand spun). Not the most cost-effective project ever. I suppose I could save the rest for baby socks (but who has time to hand wash those - and this yarn is hand wash only / not superwash/nylon blend…)

Sock 2 was 52g - though I did everything the same. I think the yarn weight-unevenness contributed to that.

22-11-2020

This yarn, while it has a lovely hand, is unevenly spun and overspun. It was also incredibly expensive. I wouldn’t buy it again.

Also, it’s referred to as a sock yarn (which I associate with fingering weight). This is a firm DK.