16-08-2022

I opted to use lifelines on the brioche and lace sections. Since this is my first time doing brioche, it was useful…

Lace Sections: I put 2 markers each at 6 st from edge and then markers every 18st thereafter. the edge markers were only accurate / relevant on the first row of the 4 row repeat - specifically to confirm that the 18-st repeats would be segmented properly. On the other rows of the repeat, I just ignored them and followed the instructions - but kept them in place.

About the Yarn: While I love the colour and it feels like a nice yarn, it is so splitty that it’s driving me nuts, esp when I need to work stitches around a lifeline. I’ve had to drop back to pick up half-strands that were lost (even though I’ve looked constantly while knitting this to avoid that outcome). I used different needles made of different materials in an attempt to find a solution - btw, wooden needles and this yarn worked terribly together for me. Also - I’m not a knitter who generally struggles with yarn splitting, even when a yarn is known to be on the splitty side. At this point, I’m on the fence about whether I’ll work with it again. It def won’t be my go to yarn, though I appreciate that it’s well priced, comes in gorgeous colours and the company cares about animal welfare.

Update: OMG - I’ve never worked with grimier yarn. I had to rinse the wet block (with yarn soap) 8x before the water became somewhat clear - and there was no yarn-dye bleed, it was all dirt. I actually could have kept going but I was worried about over-agitating the yarn so I stopped. This yarn smelled barn-ier than any other I’ve worked with (as opposed to “sheepy” which is a more subtle and appealing scent).

About the Needle: I would definitely switch to a 40” needle (30” cable if you’re working with Chiaogoo interchangeables) because it’s almost impossible to move the stitches on the needle once you get past section 8. If you don’t have one, I rec that you work on 2 circular needles of 32” - not smaller - and it will be easier to work.

About the Cast Off: I opted to do a 2-stitch icord bind off on the RS for a very neat finish, given that I don’t like fringe. It looks terrific.

Final Dimensions: 19” x 70” - while I didn’t do a gauge swatch or block to the instructed dimensions, it worked out pretty bang on…

I just used my Walcot Wires for the first time (they are flexible) and they worked very well to create a beautiful, even curve. Nonetheless, it took an hour to wire and pin this shawl. I’m really not a fan of blocking shawls, even though I know it’s a must.