Didn’t know whether to use the Sunday Morning for this project or another one. I landed on the Portia but will keep info below for future reference…
Gauge/Project Info to Keep for Future Reference:
I’ve swatched in 3 ways:
US8 - for Ranunculus or Whitehorse (but could be too open a fabric)
Pre-blocked Gauge: 20.25st x 28.5R in 4”
Post-blocked Gauge: 19st x 30R in 4”
US8 - PLUS strand of Compatible Cashmere (likely too muddy in tone) to make Ranunculus (with more body and less sheerness):
Pre-blocked Gauge: 20 st x 28R in 4”
Post-blocked Gauge: 18.5st x 28R in 4”
US6 - for Bolton Pass or Valentin or Trickle (by N Hornby) but you might need to go up to US 7 to get gauge for these…
Pre-blocked Gauge: 22st x 34R in 4”
Post-blocked Gauge: 22st x 35R in 4”
Thoughts:
Love the drape of the US 8 version but potentially too see-through. Mind you, I think if I went down to a US 7, I’d get gauge of 20.5st in 4” (do the math to see if that would yield a Ranunculus size you could get with).
I do NOT like the muddled quality of the version with the strand of cashmere, though it does create a less-translucent fabric. So this is out of the running.
I do like the fabric on US6 and would make a shawl in that gauge. Just not sure I want it to be the Bolton. Now that I have some info about gauge, I’ll look into other shawl options too… Note that in row gauge - on US7 - you’d likely be looking at 20.5st per 4” (5.125st/“) vs the proposed gauge of the sweater (3.5st/”).
For Ranunculus: This means that, knitted on US7 at my gauge, the sweater would be 34% smaller than the size of the pattern as drafted. That takes me to ~35” at full bust - smaller than I’d generally like - though I could do an extra increase round OR add more under arm stitches. Will it fit in the shoulders though?? By contrast, if I choose to use US 8 (4.75” / “), that’s 26% smaller than called for at gauge. This would give me a 38” bust measurement (aka no ease).
For Whitehorse: Stay with US8 and make the 3rd size OR go down to US7 and make the 4th size. That’ll give you 0 - 1.5” bust ease but the fabric will be quite open on the US 8 version, as per the scenario with the Ranunculus. On the US 7 the fabric will be firmer and the row gauge will likely be 7.25R per inch so the yoke would be ~11.5” - basically what it would be on the US 8 because the row gauge changes between needle sizes)