Portia Shawl
Finished
September 29, 2021
October 14, 2021

Portia Shawl

Project info
Portia by Natasja Hornby
Knitting
Neck / TorsoShawl / Wrap
Sandra K
One size
Needles & yarn
US 6 - 4.0 mm
Espace Tricot Sunday Morning 4 Ply
9 yards in stash
1.66 skeins = 717.1 yards (655.7 meters), 166 grams
19425
Espace Tricot in Montreal, Quebec
September 6, 2021
Notes

Didn’t know whether to use the Sunday Morning for this project or another one. I landed on the Portia but will keep info below for future reference…

Initial Thoughts: This pattern is very complex but incredibly enjoyable - and I don’t particularly enjoy cable knitting. It’s charted only. While this is the easiest way to do complicated cables, the process goes slowly… I’m using a yarn that is incredibly lofty (even prior to blocking). The pattern calls for DK but this fingering is working well. The added bonus is that the finished product will be very light-weight and drapey.

Final Thoughts:

  • Although I used only ~700 yards of fingering yarn, I used the right yarn. It has a lot of natural give and easily expanded to 33” x 63” (slightly shorter but also wider than the version as instructed). The great thing is that it’s a very bloomy yarn which will ensure warmth and provide adequate stitch-plumpness - so that it doesn’t seem like the shawl has been knit in the wrong yarn-gauge. And this thing weighs nothing (ok 166g but, that’s very light for a full shawl - even one in fingering weight).
  • This was a totally enjoyable, addictive knit and (as previously mentioned) cables don’t generally flip my switch. I think that what makes this work is the combo of complex cables that repeat regularly enough that the pattern starts to become knowable (though I had to look at the charts on every right-side round).
  • One of my other cable project issues is that I often find cables too busy (and a bit show-offy). But this pattern is so elegant. It manages to be in-your-face while also receding adequately to allow the yarn to shine. I also find this cable pattern quite modern. I won’t feel like I’m living in Outlander while wearing it. And don’t get me wrong, I liked the first 2 seasons of Outlander!
  • If this yarn blocks as I sense it will, I will be using it constantly. It’s skin-soft but rustic. You can feel the energy of the sheep and the land. And the colours are spectacular. I’m not sure if I love this colour or if it’s slightly too “grape” for me (and would work better in colourwork as a contrast colour), but I like it just fine with my skin tone. Also, I tend toward more muted tones. Thing about this one is that it’s not as muted as anticipated.
  • I really recommend using blocking wires and pins (as per the instructions). These are cables worth blocking per best-practice.
  • I love the end result. This shawl is so light-weight but also warm. This fingering-weight version works fine for me but I’m a small person and I can see how the proportions would work better for many if knit in a sport or DK yarn (in terms of maximizing size and optimizing the length of the shorter edge)

Gauge/Project Info to Keep for Future Reference:

I’ve swatched in 3 ways:

US8 - for Ranunculus or Whitehorse (but could be too open a fabric)

Pre-blocked Gauge: 20.25st x 28.5R in 4”
Post-blocked Gauge: 19st x 30R in 4”

US8 - PLUS strand of Compatible Cashmere (likely too muddy in tone) to make Ranunculus (with more body and less sheerness):

Pre-blocked Gauge: 20 st x 28R in 4”
Post-blocked Gauge: 18.5st x 28R in 4”

US6 - for Bolton Pass or Valentin or Trickle (by N Hornby) but you might need to go up to US 7 to get gauge for these…

Pre-blocked Gauge: 22st x 34R in 4”
Post-blocked Gauge: 22st x 35R in 4”

Thoughts:

Love the drape of the US 8 version but potentially too see-through. Mind you, I think if I went down to a US 7, I’d get gauge of 20.5st in 4” (do the math to see if that would yield a Ranunculus size you could get with).

I do NOT like the muddled quality of the version with the strand of cashmere, though it does create a less-translucent fabric. So this is out of the running.

I do like the fabric on US6 and would make a shawl in that gauge. Just not sure I want it to be the Bolton. Now that I have some info about gauge, I’ll look into other shawl options too… Note that in row gauge - on US7 - you’d likely be looking at 20.5st per 4” (5.125st/“) vs the proposed gauge of the sweater (3.5st/”).

For Ranunculus: This means that, knitted on US7 at my gauge, the sweater would be 34% smaller than the size of the pattern as drafted. That takes me to ~35” at full bust - smaller than I’d generally like - though I could do an extra increase round OR add more under arm stitches. Will it fit in the shoulders though?? By contrast, if I choose to use US 8 (4.75” / “), that’s 26% smaller than called for at gauge. This would give me a 38” bust measurement (aka no ease).

For Whitehorse: Stay with US8 and make the 3rd size OR go down to US7 and make the 4th size. That’ll give you 0 - 1.5” bust ease but the fabric will be quite open on the US 8 version, as per the scenario with the Ranunculus. On the US 7 the fabric will be firmer and the row gauge will likely be 7.25R per inch so the yoke would be ~11.5” - basically what it would be on the US 8 because the row gauge changes between needle sizes)

viewed 229 times | helped 1 person
Finished
September 29, 2021
October 14, 2021
About this pattern
209 projects, in 532 queues
KristinM100's overall rating
KristinM100's clarity rating
KristinM100's difficulty rating
About this yarn
by Espace Tricot
Fingering
75% Bluefaced Leicester, 25% Masham
432 yards / 100 grams

71 projects

stashed 61 times

KristinM100's star rating
KristinM100's adjectives for this yarn
  1. Fantastic hand - gorgeous to knit with
  2. Airy and lofty
  3. Just beautiful in every way - colours, drape, hand, squish
  • Originally queued: September 20, 2021
  • Project created: September 28, 2021
  • Finished: October 14, 2021
  • Updated: March 14, 2022
  • Progress updates: 6 updates