17-12-2019

Preblocked Gauge: 5 st and 6.75R in 1 inch

That means I’m getting 5 extra stitches and 6R more per 4 inches than the pattern calls for. If you feel it’s necessary, swatch with size 9 needle after you block this swatch OR if you really like the drape of this fabric, consider going up to the second size (after accounting for math difference)…

Update: I don’t like knitting with needles larger than a US8 and I found the US8 with the FAR yielded as open a fabric as I would like. So I’m going with a main needle in US 8.

Post blocked Gauge: 4.25 st and 7R per inch OR
17st and 28R per 4 inches

This means that unaltered, at my gauge, the garment would be 13% smaller in circumference/width and 33% shorter…

18-12-2019

I am so appreciative of this free pattern which is well written - and a beautiful garment. Having said this, I’d have happily spent 8 bucks for a schematic, given that I’ll be working with a worsted-weight yarn (not bulky, as called for). A schematic - and I’d be entirely down to pay for such a thing!! - would have saved me a bit of time and math. Fortunately, now I’ve created my own, based on the size XS, and it’ll serve me well if I opt to make this lovely garment a couple of times…

First thing first - I have to make sure that the XS is the size for me! I’m fairly certain it’ll work for me so I’ve written out my own instructions based on this size and I can revise them, as necessary, to suit the dimensions I require.

Update: My measurement, wearing shirt, over full bust including arms is 45.75” and, given the narrowness of my frame, I prefer closer fitting garments. I’m going to stick with the XS using worsted weight yarn (recalibrated for my gauge).

To make the XS with worsted (my blocked gauge being 4.25” and 7R per inch), here’s what I’ll do:

• Cast on 88 stitches (20.75” circumference) and work for 3” - that was just right for me.
• Work 3 raglan set up rows per the pattern for size XS (0.4”). At this point you have 9 st sl / 35 st back / 9 st sl / 35 st front. (Consider front-loading Row 1, the one with increases, a few times if you make this again… May be the way to reduce pulling at the collarbone in future versions…)
• Work raglan increase rows 1 and 2 32x each or 66 rows total (~10”). This will get you to a raglan scenario that is 9 sl / 101 back / 9 sl / 101 front or 220 st total. This comes to 52” circumference at your gauge…
• Straight section - Add an inch to this if necessary to get to your preferred length. Note, though this seems misaligned with my gauge, I got to 16.5” (below neck rib), after working a mere 24 rows in this section…**
• Work the rib section as instructed for 3.5” at your gauge…
• BO in pattern.

This’ll be 22” (length on back body). Given that I’m shortish (5’3”), this is optimal for me.

23-12-2019

It appears that I am experiencing fabric pull over the collarbone area, perhaps because my vertical dimensions are short and the raglan increase pattern doesn’t get to that degree of width, quite soon enough to suit my proportions. Also, I go from vertically short plus narrow going to my fullest proportions about 3 inches below that.

I have a 37.5” shoulder circumference including arms, 3 inches below the spot where rib meets the body, or 22 rows into the stockinette, based on my gauge. I will aim to block the garment with 38” of circ at this spot (it’s 32” preblocked but the yarn is very stretchy and malleable).

Note to self: I may want to make future versions with the 7 rows of increases (back to back) before going to every other row aka the way the size S is written up vs sz XS. I will still stop at the point at which I’ve hit the optimal circumference (51”-52”) But this strategy would front load the circumference increase.

Note that at 3” below the ribbing, given XS instructions, I have 132st at my gauge.

25-12-2019

At 10” in depth (from the body end of the rib neck), this comes to apex of bust (pre-blocking). That’s also 2 balls into this yarn (284 yards) exactly and right at the point when the XS increases end (220st given my gauge and size requirements). It’s measuring at 48” circumference, pre blocked. Though an additional 6” of length should take me 42R at my row gauge, I somehow get there after 24R…

Now that this is longer (I’ve started the ribbed hem on one side), there isn’t as much pulling at the collar bone. The weight of the shawl has redistributed the stretch. But I’ll still need to block the upper shoulder area well…)

29-12-2019

Instruction clarification: You make the front rib hem first (according to instructions) and you add in 1 stitch, m1p, in each of the twisted rib sections at either side. This gives you a selvedge stitch and 2 columns of continued (from the neck rib) twisted rib at the side body where the hem splits (5 stitches in total at either side body). Instructions say to work for 5”. I worked the front body for 3.5” and found the garment long enough for my proportions.

When you do the back body hem, after completing the front body hem, you DO NOT add one stitch (m1p) on either side of the split hem (the previous twisted rib sections that started at the neck). Because the original twisted rib section, that started at the neck, had 9 stitches, you have retained 5 of these 9 for the back body.

Though not incorrect, it would have been helpful for me if the instructions for the back hem clarified this because I added stitches and then had to rip back a row.

02-01-2020

Current assessment (post-blocking):

Overall / Yarn: Woolfolk Far is as fantastic as Woolfolk Sno. I don’t know if it’s gonna pill like a bitch (cuz it’s SO soft - though it is chainette to hold in the fibres more closely) but I barely care - as long as my Gleener can fix the issue when and if it arises. The yarn is a beautiful colour, it feels spectacular. This poncho, highly modified re: size, weighs 7.4 oz and is SO absurdly warm that you could practically use it as a coat (with warm things underneath).

The garment itself is very elegant when worn (if not exciting-looking when photographed flat, as I’ve done here). It has lovely drape and fall and it’s so light that it retains its shape very well. Not sure how practical it will be (can’t wear it under a coat and I wouldn’t want to stretch this over a puffer), but I’m intrigued to figure it out! I’m calling it my “sexy apres-ski wear”.

Update: I can actually wear this as a cowl, under a coat (with the shoulders pulled up to neck). Because I made this in a thinner gauge than recommended, it’s just “slim” enough to work in this capacity! Not sure if it would work if the garment were knit in an aran weight yarn or if the pattern were knitted to the proposed length.

I used much less yarn than called for (and yarn in a smaller gauge) which made my version lighter in weight (by more than 3 oz) than the original pattern yarn recommendation for size XS. I also shortened the front and back because I’m short and I tried it on while working and stopped when I felt it was long enough. I almost wish I’d gone a bit shorter because this yarn really relaxed in a way that my gauge swatch couldn’t predict because gauge swatches, for their usefulness, don’t tell the full story - esp when gravity kicks in.

On the topic of fit:

The issue with the horizontal pulling at the neckline: This may be inherent in the design, because I’ve seen other versions that show the same issue and I was able to block this malleable yarn more than adequately (almost too much) and it didn’t fix the problem. The pull is actually on both the front and back body. Update: It’s less extreme, now that the weight of the shawl pulls down the poncho - and it’s almost unobservable on the back body. This isn’t a deal breaker of bad fit but I would prefer that it not happen in a future version. Note I am fussy.

I suspect that making the XS with some front-loaded “every round” decreases (as is the instruction for the other sizes) may correct this. But I also wonder if short rows would ameliorate the issue that could be as a result of the speedy transition from very narrow neck funnel to a (relatively much) wider shoulder width.

Having never made a turtle neck garment before, I can’t say. It’s possible that in a regular turtleneck sweater, the arms and armscye pull the fabric to prevent this horizontal ridge - and that can’t happen with this design because there are no arms.

I may aim to make this again and do some trial and error learning (not that one needs 2 of these sassy and unique cosies) just to see if I can resolve the issue. I am (if nothing else) obsessive about fit :-)