Initial Thoughts:

• The pattern is very clearly written. I think this could work for a new knitter who’s already made a few things. I appreciate the inclusion of instructions to do the crochet slip stitch chain, which I’ve not done before.

• Since I’m not a mohair person, I’ve opted to use the Lamana Como Grande that I regained when I ripped back the MARMOR. I really don’t like garments that weigh a lot and this yarn manages to work up at an aran or bulky gauge while also being very light-weight. I did ask Melissa what she thought of this yarn for the project and she said that it would fit the bill in terms of not being too heavy, in terms of weight (which is why I thought it would work). It’s also not particularly drapey, which I think will be useful because the collar specifically benefits from structure to maintain its shape.

The Knitting:

• The Yoke: In case you’re wondering about how the short row shaping will resolve - given that the front panels segue from being worked all in twisted rib to twisted rib plus stockinette while you’re working both increases and short rows - it’s pretty straight-forward and elegant. I think it might have been slightly tidier if I’d worked the stitches in pattern, after the DS, but it’s barely noticeable and I don’t feel the need to rip back (or to ladder down - given that I don’t want to mess with things so close to the short row DSs). If I make this again, I’ll try it that way. (Update: This was an error in the magazine version of the pattern which has been resolved and changed in the online version, which is free!)

• After finishing the short rows, I opted to put markers 12 st from either edge of the cardi, so that I’d remember that’s when to start the twisted rib.

• I finished the raglan increase section (size 1) and put the garment on barber cords to test out the fit. The yoke was ~10” deep at this point and this size calls for 11.25”, but I have a very short armscye. Given that a fitted armscye for me is 6.75’ - 7”, 10” depth for me is more like 11.25’ on the average frame. I could do one more increase round to provide for a bit more circumference and depth, but - given the underarm and sleeve stitch pick ups - on paper it is not necessary. I’m also pretty well at the full bust depth. And, at my gauge, once this blocks, the circ will be 47”. That’s 7.5” of positive ease. It’s very strange for me not to increase over and above pattern instructions at the full bust, given that I usually knit garments with 0” to negative ease on small yarn and needles. But I’ve got to trust the math.

• I will likely opt to do 2 or 3 waist shaping rows starting at 3” below the full bust - ~16R from the split for sleeves. I’ll work a centre double decrease (CDD) at the centre of each front panel to create a vertical “dart”). Since each double decrease will reduce 2st and this decrease will occur on both fronts, that means I’ll reduce 4st per decrease row. In terms of how much circumference I’ll remove: I’ll decrease ~3” or 12 st. This is actually a reduction of 10 st because I added 2 stitches to the fronts that the pattern doesn’t call for.

• Waist Shaping Specifics: At some point in the first 16R following the split for sleeves, when it occurred to me that the CDD engages 3st, I decided to increase by one stitch on the fronts (at “side seam”), so that I’d have 45 st per front, which is divisible by 3. I set up 2 markers one stitch on from either side of the 23rd st / mid-sweater front. Markers were originally placed after st 21, before st 25, after st 157 and before st 161. On decrease, the middle stitch of the pod of 3 is what stays centred as those before and after it are assimilated. Reminder of how to work the CDD: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wi5JpkOoLCI. Keep in mind that you have to move the markers every time you work the decrease to remind that the centre st of the pod, from the start, will remain the CDD.

• Bodice Stitch Counts: As of split for sleeves, as per first size, I had 179st. I added 2, bringing it to 181st. Then I decreased 12st, bringing the total stitch count of the bodice to 169st as of completion of the waist decreases.

• Pattern calls for 8.5” depth from underarm to hem. That’s a bit shorter than what I’m into (esp given that boobs take up some depth). Having tried the garment on as of my second waist-shaping round, I’m at 4.5” depth from split for sleeves. I’m pretty sure I would like my version to be 9.5”-10” from underarm to hem . On the topic of the waist shaping: I’m pretty happy with it. I’ve not done a CDD on the front panels before but I’ll likely do it again. I wondered about the ratio of rows between decreases, this was a bit of an experiment, but I think that 1 dec round (on RS) followed by 5R (1 dec round ever 6 rounds) worked well.

• FWIW, at my row gauge (24R per 4” / 6R per 1”), I had to knit 36R of the body from join at underarm (on larger needle / US9) to get to 6.5” below the underarm. Then 20R of ribbing on US7 = 3” of additional depth.

• Sleeves: Wow. I knitted 2 sleeves in about 4 hours. Admittedly, they are short (given the depth of the raglan) and the yarn is robust. But I added an extra inch of length so my sleeves are 10”. I often find that I need to make sleeves a bit snugger because a) I like snugger sleeves and b) I find that many patterns run on the slightly larger size for sleeves. These will grow on blocking but, pre-blocking they are fitted. I can fit a top underneath, but I wouldn’t want them any smaller in circumference than they are pre-blocked.

• Thing I just Realized About Barber Cords (or whatever you want to call those hollow silicone strings): I have a feeling that all of the people who love them to bits are knitting on larger needles (having big stitches). On a US9 it is a piece of cake to switch from needles to cords and back again. Every time I try doing that with fine fingering weight yarn and a US3 needle the cords pull off the needle multiple times on any given transfer, even though I am very careful. At least it’s given me some perspective. With a grippy thin yarn on a fine needle, it’s probably just as fast (and somewhat less irritating) to use waste yarn, as in the days of yore.

Final Thoughts:

• This is a really quick, very satisfying knit. It’s both simple and chic. Its elegance comes from its beautiful, clean lines.

• The instructions are very clear and well-written. There’s no schematic in the version in Laine, which isn’t surprising given that space is at a premium in a hard-copy mag. Perhaps Melissa will include a schematic when the pattern is released electronically.

• It’s easily customizable. I made the size 1 with a shortened armscye, slightly longer sleeves, slightly longer body and a decrease in the bodice circumference below the full bust to the the hem. Had I knitted this to the exact instructions, it would have felt too short in length, too long in the armscye, and too boxy for my frame, by my own estimation (I’m a smallish, short-waisted person with boobs). I find, for a notable bust, that waist shaping for a cardigan is de rigeur - esp if knitted in a larger gauge. I’m really glad I thought to use the CDD on the fronts. It creates a chic dart and it was straight forward to accomplish.

• I have not done a crochet slip stitch chain before. The instructions are clear but, if you’re not a crochet-er (and I’m not), it might be useful to use this tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I9WXeMgWOdI. What I will say is, I’m mixed-handed (and would probably choose to crochet with my left-hand) but I worked this with my right hand because that’s how the tutorial shows it. I tried to mirror on the left side but it wasn’t going easily and I just wanted to finish things. I believe that my tension is fine. This yarn does have structure (see below) but this is still a largely unstructured/flowy design. Because of this, I suggest one might size down if on the cusp between 2 sizes. Admittedly, I’m not in favour of lots of positive ease (for myself) but if the garment has too much ease, the collar is more likely to drop and the raglans will be very long (also there’s no waist shaping instructed so it could seem very roomy).

• The yarn has exceeded my expectations - which is great cuz it cost a lot of money :-). Even though it has already been knitted once before, and I washed and rehanked it, it has stood up (it’s a tiny bit more matte in the hand, but it knits up just fine). This is def my go to “thick yarn”. It is so light-weight! 275g for an oversized cardi at a large gauge is about as good as it gets. I also feel that it suits the design very well given it’s structure. It is not a drapey yarn.

• IMO, this cardi would look as great in a super intense colour (hot pink, magenta, emerald green) as in a neutral (like black or a subtle oatmeal).

Pre-blocked Measurements:
Bust circ: 39” (this is effectively at the split for sleeves given the depth of the raglan)
Hip circ: 32” (but has a lot of stretch
Raglan depth (diagonal): 11” (measured from base of collar)
Raglan depth (vertical): 9.5”
Length from under arm to hem: 10.5”
Hem rib depth: 3”
Cuff rib depth: 3”
Length from underarm to cuff: 10”
Cuff circ: 8”
Upper arm circ: 12”
Collar depth: 2” (I don’t need longer than this given the length of my neck and the taller the collar, the more likely it is to flop over time…

Post-blocked Measurements:
Bust circ: 43” (this is effectively at the split for sleeves given the depth of the raglan)
Hip circ: 36” (but has a lot of stretch)
Raglan depth (diagonal): 13” (measured from base of collar)
Raglan depth (vertical): 9.5”
Length from under arm to hem: 10”
Hem rib depth: 3.25”
Cuff rib depth: 3”
Length from underarm to cuff: 10”
Cuff circ: 8”
Upper arm circ: 12” - this is fine and I expect it to grow over time given the size of the stitches but, note, this is one of those times that my small-diameter knitting in the round (magic loop) made my knitting tighter than my flat knitting was. It was 17st in 4” vs the 15.25st in 4” on the body.
Collar depth: 2” (I don’t need longer than this given the length of my neck and the taller the collar, the more likely it is to flop over time…

Gauge:

Preblocked Gauge: US9: 17st and 24R in 4”
Postblocked Gauge: US9: 15.25st and 24R in 4”

Didn’t know whether to go with US8 or US9. I’d prob get closer to stitch gauge with the 8 but I’d be pretty off on row gauge… Seems to grow by 10% on blocking…

This garment is oversized and I’m not sure I’ve got enough yarn to make anything but the smallest size. So I’m going to stick with the recommended US9 needle, esp given the nature of the yarn I’ll be working with (Lamana Como Grande). It’s spun in a way to maximize air content / minimize weight. While it looks like worsted weight in the skein, it actually knits up as bulky.