• This CO went so smoothly for me when I made it the first time (before Laine published errata). This time, I followed the corrected instructions. I have no idea what happened but, working from them, I kept messing up. Eventually I just came up with a fix on the fly. With my original version, I did get to the stitch counts cited in the OG pattern without issue. I do recognize, on re-review, that I probably intuited more than I read first time round. Alas, sometimes it takes a while to get into a project groove, even if I’ve knitted the garment before; hopefully now I’m over the hump.

• I opted to do the ribbing in a US7 and then to make the larger needle a US8. That was producing a smaller outcome than anticipated (I swatched a while ago and when I was less stressed) so I went up to the US 9. Turns out, I’ve used the recommended needles though, at first, I intended to size down…

• I’d worked the full yoke depth (all increases) at 10.25” from back neckline (where collar meets yoke). I opted to split for sleeves at this depth given my proportions.

• This time, as with my first version, I opted to do one more front increase before doing waist shaping but this time I added it into the front body before the split for sleeves. As of split for sleeves - including 2 extra front stitches, one on each front, and the 8 underarm stitches my numbers are:

Fronts: 45st each (measured to ~11” preblocked)
Back: 91st (measured to ~23” preblocked)

• Measured 6R into knitting the straight portion to confirm that I wouldn’t need to do some decreasing specifically in the back body (before the waist shaping segment). I didn’t feel this was necessary at this point but, further into the decrease segment, I opted to decrease on the back body.

• 3” below split for sleeves (16R at my gauge), began the waist shaping. I decreased 12 st on the centre fronts (see specifics below). Worked these front decreases every 6th RS row. Because I increased 2st before splitting for sleeves, I actually only reduced 10st on the front body.

• Waist Shaping Specifics: The CDD engages 3st. I increased 2 front body stitches (one on each front), so that I’d have 45 st per front, which is divisible by 3. I set up 2 markers one stitch on from either side of the 23rd st / mid-sweater front. Markers were originally placed after st 21, before st 25, after st 157 and before st 161. On decrease, the middle stitch of the pod of 3 is what stays centred as those before and after it are assimilated. Reminder of how to work the CDD: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wi5JpkOoLCI. Keep in mind that you have to move the markers every time you work the decrease to remind that the centre st of the pod, from the start, will remain the CDD.

• Back Body Decreases: Given the heft of this yarn, I also opted to decrease 4 back body stitches (from 91 to 87). The fronts are decreased to 39st each so, at the end of body decreases = 165 st on body. I made these 2-st per row decreases on the first 2 RS rows following the CDD decrease rows. Did K2tog followed by SSK on either side of the back side body. Total stitches reduced on back body = 4st.

• At this point I realized that I wouldn’t have enough of the main yarn to complete the sweater. And the body was still shorter than desired. The sleeves were at 6.5” of depth (per pattern time to switch needles and begin twisted rib cuff). I utilized all but 10g of the remaining yarn for the ribbing on the body. Got to depth of 9.25”, a good inch shorter than I’d prefer.

• Sleeves: 45st each (before picking up stitches to work the sleeves in the round). For size 1, the decreases take you to 44 st before beginning the ribbing in the smaller needle size. I paid attention to knitting evenly on the sleeves and this fabric is more robust than the one I worked with previously so I didn’t feel the need to stop decreasing at 46st (something I considered).

• At 6.5” of depth, I had 5g of yarn left per sleeve (about 5R worth). I wanted to get to at least 7.5” of depth before moving to the twisted ribbing (which I would work 3” of to match the hem ribbing and to give a bit more length).

• To achieve these objectives, I cut the original yarn, worked 3R of the (smaller gauge) Woolfolk yarn (fingering held double and the yarn really blooms). Then went back to the original grey colour for a 2-round stripe (about the same length of 3 of the Woolfolk stripes). Then went back to the Woolfolk for 3 additional rounds. Then went back to the grey for the final 2R in this colour. Then worked 3R of the Woolfolk in US9 stockinette, switched to US7 and worked 20R of this yarn before BO. (This yielded 3.5” of cuff.)

About the Yarn Very special gift from my friend. It comes from the very southern part of South America and knits up like a robust worsted to aran-weight (not that I have a lot of experience knitting with yarns at this gauge). I have to assume that I’ve prob got about 725 yards. It is extremely dense and robust. This yarn is almost coat warm.

Final Thoughts:

• This version fits very differently given the diff properties between this rustic aran-weight yarn and the Lamana Como Grande. One of the main ways is in the neck. Given that I made the neckband shorter than instructed (as I did first time around), and this yarn did not stretch vertically like the other one, it’s not a standing neckline but one that wraps around my collar bones. There is no need to or benefit in doing the crochet chain to stabilize what is already a very stable fabric and that isn’t standing away from the neck.

• This version also looks very different - it’s not an elegant, light version but a sporty, exceedingly warm one. It’s not my natural style but, hey, one has to try to figure these things out and, who knows, it may find a place in my wardrobe. The yarn is gorgeous but I don’t think that light grey is my best colour. It washes me out a bit with my pale skin and blond hair. It would, however, look great on my mother (who has full on grey hair).

• This is a very wearable design that’s quite easy to make in a couple of weeks.

• Note to self: If you make this again, split the sleeves at 8.5” and continue increases at the side body.

Pre-blocked Measurements:
Bust circ: 40” (this is effectively at the split for sleeves given the depth of the raglan)
Hip circ: 32” (but has a lot of stretch
Raglan depth (diagonal): 12” (measured from base of collar)
Raglan depth (vertical): 9.5”
Length from under arm to hem: 9.25” (I wish this were 10.25” but I’m hopeful I can pin this to longer depth)
Hem rib depth: 3”
Cuff rib depth: 3.5”
Length from underarm to cuff: 10.5”
Cuff circ: 8”
Upper arm circ: 12”
Collar depth: 2” The qualities of this yarn make the collar sit differently. Instead of lifting up (which it would do with more height), it curves around my collarbones.

Post-blocked Measurements:
Bust circ: 42” (this is effectively at the split for sleeves given the depth of the raglan)
Hip circ: 35.5”
Raglan depth (diagonal): 12” (measured from base of collar)
Raglan depth (vertical): 8.25”
Length from under arm to hem: 9.75”
Hem rib depth: 3”
Cuff rib depth: 3.5”
Length from underarm to cuff: 11.25”
Cuff circ: 7.5” (unstretched)
Upper arm circ: 11.“
Collar depth: 1.75”

Gauge Swatches:
Preblocked US9: 16st and 22R in 4” this comes out at the same pre-blocked gauge as the US 8 swatch but the yarn is less dense.
Postblocked US 9: 15st and 22R in 4”

Preblocked US8: 16st and 22R in 4”
Postblocked US 8: 15.5st and 23R in 4”

Preblocked US7: 16.5st and 24R in 4”
Postblocked US7: 16st and 25R in 4”

Other projects I considered making with this yarn:

Cloud Peak Cardigan - Joji L - Gauge: 14.5st and 20R in 4” in stockinette (calls for 350g of worsted yarn for size 3 and 400g for size 4) - Suggested US 8 - I wouldn’t make the pockets but I do have a cardigan that looks quite similar to this already… I’d be pushing it with the yardage… Possible.

Meander Vest - Klara Pushin. Gauge 18st and 26R in 4” in stockinette suggested US 7 Calls for about 600 yards of woollen-spun yarn in my size. May not be the best use of this yardage though I think this design would work very well in this yarn. But it will require math. I might be able to knit this in a smaller size with my yarn… Possible.

Newel - Paula Pereira 13st and 20R in 4” I like this design and I would likely have enough yarn to make the slipover version. Not sure if I can get gauge this large. But I could knit a larger size in my tighter gauge. I think the yarn would work to give stability to this design. I don’t think that knitting the fabric as “open” as it would be (if knitted at 13st gauge) would optimize the look of the fabric. I don’t think this will work.

Avena by Emily Greene - Gauge: 19.5st in 4” on suggested US 5 I’ve made this before (in a smaller gauge than called for) and I think I could make the size 2 out of 350g. There’s no way I’ll be able to get gauge and it isn’t soft or in any way drapey, as it happens. This one’s out.

Sextant Poncho by The Bluebrick - interesting poncho I could knit without the colourwork - or even with… This would use 750-800 yards of yarn in my size and the gauge is 20st / suggested needle US7. Thing is, this yarn is too rustic (probably) and prob not drapey enough. Also, I can’t get 20st gauge with this yarn. This one is out.

Tycho shawl - Natasha Hornby - takes 900 yards 18st gauge in stitch pattern, suggested US7. Gauge too small for the yarn and I don’t have enough yarn given that it’s thicker than I originally thought. This one is out.

Nyore Cardigan - Lucía Ruiz de Aguirre. 16st and 24R. Would require 950 yards so this is a no go.