This is a rough English translation of the original Russian pattern that can be found here;
http://www.liveinternet.ru/users/4630274/post231932287/

Blue Turtle -4.5mm hook for body parts, 5.5 for the shell/belly.
Pink Turtle - 3.5mm hook for body parts, 4.5mm hook for the shell/belly.
Baby Turtle – 2.5mm hook for body parts, 3.5mm for shell/belly.

Turtle is made in Amigurumi style of crochet – use a stitch marker to mark the beginning st of each round and move it after every round to the last stitch that you worked.

Abbreviations (US crochet terms):
ch: chain
sc: single crochet
dc: double crochet
sl st: slip stitch
tog: together

Body Parts;
There is no need to leave long threads when finishing off body parts as they are attached to the body by crocheting in later rounds of the under-belly….no sewing required other than sewing in ends!
Head.
6 sc in a magic ring.
Rnd 1: 2sc in ea (12)
Rnd 2: (1sc, inc) 6 times (18)
Rnd 3: (2sc, inc) 6 times (24)
Rnd 4: (3sc, inc) 6 times (30)
Rnd 5: (4sc, inc) 6 times (36)
Rnd 6: 36sc
Rnd 7: (5sc, inc) 6 times (42)
Rnd 8: 42sc
Rnd 9: (6sc, inc) 6 times (48)
Rnd 10: 48sc
Rnd 11: (7sc, inc) 6 times (54)
Rnds 12-14: 54sc
Rnd 15: (7sc, dec) 6 times (48)
Rnd 16: 48sc
Rnd 17: (6sc, dec) 6 times (42)
Rnd 18: 42sc
Rnd 19: (5sc, dec) 6 times (36)
Rnds 20-22: 36sc
Rnd 23: (4sc, dec) 6 times (30)
Rnd 24: 30sc
Rnd 25: 12sc, (sc, dec) 6 times (this will be the chin, the bottom of the head) (24)
Rnds 26-29: 24sc
Rnd 30: (10sc, dec), 2 times (22)
Rnds 31-36: 22sc
Rnd 37: (9sc, dec), 2 times (20)
Rnds 38 & 39: 20sc, finish off.

Leg (make 4).
5 ch.
Begin in 2nd loop from the hook, 3 sc, 3 sc in last st, 2 sc, 2 sc in last st.
If using a stitch marker, place it on the last stitch…..rounds begin here.
Rnd 1: inc, 2 sc, 3 inc, 2 sc, inc 2
Rnd 2: sc, inc, 2 sc, (sc, inc) 3 times, 2 sc, (sc, inc), 2 times
Rnd 3: 2 sc, inc, 2 sc, (2 sc, inc) 3 times, 2 sc, (2 sc, inc), 2 times
Rnds 4-16 (13 rows): sc in ea.
Rnd 17: 2 sc, dec, 2 sc, (2 sc, dec) 3 times, 2 sc, (2 sc, dec), 2 times
Rnds 18 & 19: sc in ea.
Rnd 20: (9 sc, dec), 2 times
Rnd 21: 20 sc, Finish off.

Tail.
4 sc in a magic ring.
Rnd 1: 4 sc
Rnd 2: inc, 4 sc
Rnd 3: inc, 5 sc
Continue working rounds, inc in the first st of each round until you have 14sc in total, finish off.

Now for the pretty bits!

Spiral Hexagon. (make 7)
It may look daunting, but long story short…..you are just working a normal circle, changing colours half-way round. Just take your time and follow each step.
In main shell (A) colour, 6sc in a magic ring, place stitch marker.
Rnd 1: inc in each of the next 3sc (A), then before you drop (A) pull up a loop of yarn so that your previous work will not be undone while you work on the second colour. Attach swirl colour (B) with a sl st into the next sc, ch1 and then work 2sc into this sc and inc in each of the next 2sc. mm (12sts)
Rnd 2: Continue in (B)…..(1sc, inc) 3 times, then before you drop (B) pull up a loop of yarn so that your previous work will not be undone while you work on the next colour. Insert your hook into the loop that you made before (A) and pull it up tight to your hook then work (1sc, inc) 3 times with (A) working into the top of the (B) sts that you worked in the previous round. mm (18sts)
Rnd 3: Continue in (A)……(2sc, inc) 3 times, then before you drop (A) pull up a loop of yarn so that your previous work will not be undone while you work on the next colour. Insert your hook into the loop that you made before (B) and pull it up tight to your hook then work (2sc, inc) 3 times with (B). mm (24sts)
Rnd 4: Continue in (B)…..(3sc, inc) 3 times, then before you drop (B) pull up a loop of yarn so that your previous work will not be undone while you work on the next colour. Insert your hook into the loop that you made before (A) and pull it up tight to your hook then work (3sc, inc) 3 times with (A). mm (30sts)
Rnd 5: Continue in (A)……(4sc, inc) 3 times, then before you drop (A) pull up a loop of yarn so that your previous work will not be undone while you work on the next colour. Insert your hook into the loop that you made before (B) and pull it up tight to your hook then work (4sc, inc) 3 times with (B), then remove stitch marker and finish off (B). (36sts)
Rnd 6: Rotate your work counter-clockwise to your (A) colour, then continue working around the circle in (A) …..(5sc, inc) 6 times, finish off. (42sts)

Join swirl hexagons using one motif as a centre piece and connecting the others together around it using whichever method you are comfortable with using, either sc or sew together. I chose to sew mine together to get a ridge between each motif – either look is fine.

Three-colour Spiral Hexagons

Every colour change in the spiral hexagon is done by pulling up the loop of the colour that you are working on (to prevent it from unravelling while you work on the next colour), then start your next colour by placing your hook into the loop of your next colour, pulling it up tight to your hook and start crocheting. SO…to save me typing that over and over again, where you see the word CHANGE, follow these instructions! Another tip….if you are confused about which colour you are up to, then copy and paste this pattern into a ‘Word’ document and actually change the colours of the (A), (B) and (C) in the written pattern to represent the actual colour of yarn that you are working with.

Using main shell colour (A) make 2sc in a magic ring, then make 2sc in the same ring with your second colour (B) and then 2sc in your third colour (C), place stitch marker. (6sts)
Rnd 1: Continue in (C) and inc in ea of the next 2sts, CHANGE to (A) and inc in ea of the next 2sts, CHANGE to (B) and inc in ea of the next 2sts. mm (12sts)
Rnd 2: Continue in (B) and work (1sc,inc) 2 times, CHANGE to (C) and work (1sc,inc) 2 times, CHANGE to (A) and work (1sc,inc) 2 times. mm (18sts)
Rnd 3: Continue in (A) and work (2sc,inc) 2 times, CHANGE to (B) and work (2sc,inc) 2 times, CHANGE to (C) and work (2sc,inc) 2 times. mm (24sts)
Rnd 4: Continue in (C) and work (3sc,inc) 2 times, CHANGE to (A) and work (3sc,inc) 2 times, CHANGE to (B) and work (3sc,inc) 2 times. mm (30sts)
Rnd 5: Continue in (B) and work (4sc,inc) 2 times, finish off (B), CHANGE to (C) and work (4sc,inc) 2 times, finish off (C) CHANGE to (A) and work (4sc,inc) 2 times. mm (36sts)
Rnd 6: Continue in (A) and work (5sc,inc) 6 times, finish off. (42sts)

Assembling the shell.
Motifs, putting a “face to face” the three parties to interconnect sc.

Next, bind from the outer edge.

1. sc in each sc around (126 sts)
2. sc (19 sc, dec) 6 times, and tog should fall into the joint between the motives, ie you grab one loop of one motif and one loop of another motive and do dec (120 loops)
3. (dec, 15 sc, dec, sc) 6 times, and sc between the dec to be discharged into the joint between the motifs (dec in the previous row).
4. (ss, 15 sc, ss, 3dc in one loop) 6 times, with 3dc should fall into the joint between the motives (in sc dec between the previous row). 5, 6 and 7 series 120 sc

proceed to the tummy.

The basis of the pattern on the tum - all performed gain additional thread colours are obtained as the rays from the center.
All that is between the beams - at your discretion, you can insert randomly coloured eyes (as in my case), you can not do the rays and let the spiral, both on the motives of the shell, you can even do a tummy monotonous.

1. 7 sc in a magic ring
2. 7 of increases
3. (1sc, inc.) 7 times
4. (2sc, inc.) 7 times
5. (3sc, inc.) 7 times
6. (4sc, inc.) 7 times
7. (5sc, inc.) 7 times
8. (6sc, inc.) 7 times
9. (7sc, inc.) 7 times
10. (8sc, inc.) 7 times
11. (9sc, inc.) 7 times
12. (10sc, inc.) 7 times
13. (11sc, inc.) 7 times
14. (12sc, inc.) 7 times
15. (13sc, inc.) 7 times
16. (14sc, inc.) 7 times (finish patterning here – continue in single belly colour)
17. Work in back loops only… (15sc, inc.) 7 times 18 and 19 rows of sc in each loop of the previous row, the thread is not cut off.

Then bind to Bellies limbs as follows:

11 sc, 10 sc grabbing his leg (as pictured), 10 sc, 10 sc grabbing his leg, 10 sc, 10 sc grabbing the head (chin to tummy, remember where the dec on your neck?), 10 sc, 10 sc grabbing his leg, 10 sc, 10 sc grabbing his leg, 12 sc, sc 7, grabbing the tail.
Next row - sc in each loop of the previous row, but capturing the remaining free loop of the limbs and head.

2 more series of sc in each loop of the previous row, and fasten the thread broke.

Making the frame. A piece of wire from the tail to the head, and two connecting legs in pairs.
Insert the frame. Interconnect the legs and spine optional.
Once inserted the frame fills the head and feet. not very tight, so that later it was convenient to do utjazhki (tightening?).

Next bind the shell to the tummy.
To begin attach armour to the resulting organism with the legs, head and tail were centered between the shell motifs.

Fasten the thread to connect the shell carapace and abdomen and loop the loop. The process is fairly tedious, but be patient.

Leave a hole somewhere between the last leg and tail, and fill the carcass.
first belly (under the frame), then the shell (on frame), starting from the far side, so that stood out in relief motifs shell.
dovyazyvaem a number to the end.
yes, on the shell, we have an extra loop (abdomen 119 loops and 120 armour), we hide it something in the region of the tail end of the series, there will not be noticeable.
the thread is not cut off, knit it in the future.

2nd row - 2 sc, inc to end.
3rd and 4th rows of sc in each loop of the previous row
5th row 6 sc, inc knit yarn of a different colour, and make the loop gain of the previous row (see photo)
6th row change to the main thread, sc in each loop of the previous row, and fasten the thread broke.
admire the fact that we’ve got))
and proceed to the design of the head.

embroider mouth, so that the stitches go smoothly between the rows.
do eyes
Insert the needle into the corner of the mouth, and print it to the location of the eyes
we catch a bead-eye, I stick the needle back where you pulled out, and we derive a single loop farther than originally introduced. I hope, at least a little understandable, I mean))
contract the cheek at the same time formed a smile and eye pressed to the head. firmly connect the ends of the thread to lock the position.
repeat the operation on the other side.
we have the smiling, but still somewhat inadequate bug))
to bring back the lady in adequate, need to do it forever.

I was knitting for ever according to the following scheme:
Eyelid
10ch
the second loop 9 sc
the second loop ss, sc, 3 dc, sc, ss, sn
cc, 4 sc, 2 ss, sn
the second loop ss, sc, inc. 2 sc, 2 ss, sn
the second loop ss, 5 sc, 3 ss, sn. left end of the thread to sew.
and here, as they say, I have found a cut diamond. century and the circuit size depends entirely on the size and shape of beads to be your eye turtle! so my scheme is more than likely you will just not work ((
with pins try on forever. when they found the position that suits you, sew the eyelids.
hide all the ends of the thread inside and our turtle is ready!

Eyelid……8ch, 7sc.
Ss, sc, 3dc tog, 2sc, ss.