2019/12/1 -- This will be another design exercise, attempting to recreate (sort of) a worn-out RTW sweater. It’s also the latest attempt that the Navy pullover and the Navy sweater remake were intended to fulfill. Although I admit, I’d still like to regauge and make that Vittadini sweater from the latter project.

This original sweater is one more step removed from a direct (sort of) reproduction -- it’s now too small for me, in addition to being worn out. So it will 1) take measurements of original, 2) adjust for my current size, and 3) create a new pattern.

The original is navy blue, so I’m targeting fingering-weight yarns where I can find a solid navy that is wearable next-to-skin. It is slim fit, with waist shaping, a bit longer over the hips than most pullovers that I wear over other shirts, long-sleeved with deep cuff ribbing and a bit of shoulder puff (did I mention this was purchased in the 1980s?), a ribbed crossover collar that is deep enough to become a kind of mock turtleneck, and a small knitted-in breast pocket. So, enough design differences to allow learning some new things in knitting pattern creation.

I’ve already been hitting the local yarn stores to buy sample balls for audition swatches.

Was using the Holst Garn Coast as a placeholder photo, as I just have an intuition that it will be the project yarn. Let’s see how close that prediction is!

2021/6/28 -- Measured the Holst Garn Coast, 49g. Split into two balls 24g / 24g. Measured one of those on niddy-noddy, got 196 yd. This stuff is really thin, truly “light fingering”. Might need #1s to get intended fabric. Do I really want to knit an adult sweater on #1s?

2021/7/18 -- Maybe I’ll knit an adult sweater on #1s, but I can guarantee I won’t do it on #0s (2.0mm). Not even done with swatching the Coast on 2.0mm needles, and can tell that it won’t work for this project. The color and texture really were perfect to the original model, but even on 2.0mm needles, it’s much more open than I want.

Likely won’t use the Shibui Lunar, as that is laceweight and would have to be held double. Not inclined to do that on the heels of the Kinda Like It Sweater and its juggling of three yarns at once. Also probably won’t use the Brooklyn Tweed Peerie, as I’m not inclined to use anything from Brooklyn Tweed. It was probably a mistake to buy that skein at all.

Which leaves, of what’s already acquired, the Rauma Baby Panda, the Woolfolk Tynd, and the J.C. Rennie Supersoft 4ply. Have opened up the Rauma Baby Panda, and swatching on 2.5mm needles.

2021/7/29 -- Have finished swatching the Rauma Baby Panda, and laid it out to block. This was much more pleasant to work with than the Holst Garn Coast, not completely sure why. The fabric is heavier than the original sweater, but that is to be expected as this is hand-knit instead of machine-knit. So far, this is a good candidate.

Looking, and touching, the J.C. Rennie Supersoft 4ply, I’m thinking it’s not soft or smooth enough for a next-to-the-skin sweater. The Woolfolk Tynd is thicker, the label indicates almost a sport weight. But nice soft feel, should be good for next-to-the-skin. For due diligence, will swatch this. Will try 80 sts (used 60 sts on Baby Panda), on 2.5mm needles.

2021/8/1 -- While waiting for the air to clear of wildfire smoke and ash that I’ll want to go get another ball of Rauma Baby Panda for testing, thought I’d swatch up the Woolfolk Tynd. Very nice and soft, good density of fabric on 2.5mm needles. Probably won’t use it for this project. Will have to figure a project to use it for.

2021/8/2 -- Rauma Baby Panda dry, and allowed to relax a couple of days. Raw gauge: 7.87 sts/inch, 9.77 rows/inch. Blocked gauge: 7.68 sts/inch, 9.71 rows/inch.

2021/8/6 -- Got another ball of Rauma Baby Panda in order to test ribbing. Made a separate entry because purchased at a different store. But look! Same dye lot. I’ll likely return to this second store to get the real yarn for the project. They’re closer to home.

2021/8/28 -- Being a commercially produced sweater, the original’s pocket has three layers: the outer sweater surface, and two pocket lining layers which make a pocket bag on the inside. Having three layers for that pocket always bothered me. In a new hand-knit, with thicker fabric, it would bother me even more. Recalled that in Lucy Neatby’s basic class on double knitting, she showed how to use DK to make a knit-in pocket that only has two layers. Found my class notes and it works. Swatched up a basic pocket using scratch yarn. Working on a second swatch now with cosmetic adjustments to come closer to the original sweater pocket.

2021/9/1 -- Have now made four pocket swatches, with various improvements: Use a purl-wise bind off for pocket edge, work a ribbed edge with appropriate needle size and number of stitches in order to replicate a design feature of the original, actually read the rest of Lucy’s instructions on completing the DK pocket to achieve an even, level finished pocket edge. Photos to come once blocked.

2021/9/3 -- Posted photos of the first three pocket prototypes. #3 is looking pretty good for the shape of the ribbed edge. But notice that in these three prototypes, the top of the pocket is skewed, not level to the rest of the knitting. By using all of Lucy’s instructions, pocket #4 is looking very good. To be revealed soon.

2021/9/4 -- Pocket #4 done and blocked. Picked up pocket stitches from string, easily used smaller needles and increased sts to make the ribbing as desired. Read all the directions when trying a new method.

2021/9/9 -- Swatching 2 x 2 ribbing with the second test ball of Rauma Baby Panda. Working over 100 sts. First half of the ball is on 2.25mm needles, then will use 2.0mm needles. To see which scale of ribbing works better with the stockinette stitch, which is most of this sweater.

2021/9/22 -- Writing first draft of pattern, following Shirley Paden’s method.

2021/9/27 -- Have begun second draft of pattern.

2021/9/30 -- Second draft, and third draft of pattern (the Word document) done. Spreadsheet done. Ready to buy yarn, and Ingebretsen’s starts their Fall Sale in a couple of days.

2021/10/5 -- Visited Ingebretsen’s today. Completely unsurprisingly, they did not have a sweater’s quantity of Rauma Baby Panda in stock (i.e. 12 balls). Put in an order for it. Probably won’t get to use the 15% off sale, but oh well.

2021/11/3 -- The yarn arrived! To my surprise, I received Babygarn. A look at the yarn page says that’s the old name, Rauma labels it now as Baby Panda. So older stock. So what? It’s the right yarn, the right color. Wheee! I think I’ll note the skeins used as I go through them, for a more accurate count.

2021/12/13 -- Just have the Right Shoulder to do on the Back, where need to join new yarn. Getting near the end of the 3rd ball. Will instead open the 4th ball to finish the Back, so to have a good amount on the 3rd ball left with which to start the Front. - 30.3% knitted

I have a dress form inherited from my mother-in-law, who was smaller and shorter than me. I keep thinking I could build out a form for myself and place over it, but haven’t done so. Still, thought I’d try pinning the completed back piece to this human-shaped stand.

2021/12/30 -- Front is knitted. - 59.8% knitted

Cast on first Sleeve. - 60.1% knitted

2021/12/31 -- To match the cuff length of original sweater, had to add more rows. - 61.2% knitted

2022/1/11 -- Finished first Sleeve. Had about 3 yards left of 7th ball of yarn. Started 8th ball of yarn to cast on second Sleeve. - 78% knitted

2022/1/14 -- Made myself put down the knitting so I could take some photos. This also was going to test how the sleeve gathers looked. So far, I think they’re looking pretty darn good. Of course the true test will be when the sleeve gets sewn in. -- 87% knitted

2022/1/21 -- Second sleeve is done. Next up, seam the front to back at the shoulders and do the collar. -- 96.6% knitted

2022/2/8 -- Shoulders seamed, collar sts picked up. -- 96.7% knitted

2022/3/7 -- Finally back to working on this. Collar turning out well. Thought there might be enough of Ball #9 to complete the collar, but no. Ripped back a couple of rows, and starting Ball #10.

2022/3/13 -- After being continually distracted by my video game, made myself go back and finish the collar. Looks good, but with the overlap at center front turns out too small, even though bare neckline is correct. Will try adding enough stitches to make up for that overlap, so depth of collar and rib gauge says add 60 stitches. Not interested in doing pick-up again, so will rip back that far and increase on first row.

2022/4/2 -- Have made progress on the collar. Now using over 200 sts around, of the 2 x 2 rib.

2022/4/10 -- Collar bound off. Pinned it into place and tried it on and it fits! I can get it on and off over my head and it is comfortable to wear. Now everything can be sewn together. Of course spring is finally upon us now. Guess I’ll have this for next fall.

2022/4/19 -- Collar stitched down. On to seams.

2023/4/1 -- Almost a year! But back at it. Both armscye seams done. The fit of collar and shoulders is pretty good.

2023/4/3 -- This isn’t going to work. Have a sleeve and part of a side seamed. Fit is very poor.

Will analyze, take it apart, try again. Will likely need to make a “muslin” out of knit fabric.