Mods in short, explanations below:

• Knitting K1tbls as p1tbls instead of p1s in the cable pattern (on wrong side), looks better. See photo with blue and red lines. It turned out that’s it’s the better option as I’m using the DK-version of MTosh Merino.
• Didn’t get gauge, down to needle 3.5mm/US 4 and knitting size S
• One pattern repeat more on the front (by mistake ;))
• Knitted sleeves separately and lengthened them to 30cm (11.8 in) instead of just 19cm (7.5 in) as in pattern
• Sweater Size S is perfect for my size and figure (171cm/67.3 in, Size L), but the sleeves upper arm circumference in S was too small for me (pattern: 34 cm / 13 1⁄2 in), so I wet-blocked the sleeves very hard and separately before sewing them to the sweater.
• Used up all 7 skeins because of longer sleeves
• Would use no DK yarn if I would knit it again. Considered that it’s an oversize jumper and considered you have Size L normally (as I do), DK yarn adds too much additional “bulk” to a feminine shape - in my opinion. In a fingering weight yarn, the sweater should have much more drape and “flow”.

Related Blog Post: http://suzanoakhill.com/2015/07/31/project-finished-sous-...

Prework:

• Swatched and tried desperately to get gauge. Didn’t really work. I counted 18sts (10cm/4in) for all needle sizes I tried, which were (from the bottom on the picture): 4.5mm/US 7, 4mm/US 6, 3.5mm/US 4 and the last two top rows in 3mm/US 2.5.

• Didn’t block the swatch, but I will most likely use a needle 3.5mm/US 4 because knitting the pattern stitch was most comfortable with them and the tension of the fabric seems to be alright, though it’s very stretchy anyway. Can’t see much difference visually though between the different needle sizes. But the largest needle (4.5mm/ US 7) produced a veeery loose fabric (and I’m normally knitting very tight), while needle 3mm/ US 2.5 has too tiny stitches and the fabric feels like a brick. :)

Knitting Process:

• I recommend using the chart while knitting this - when you are not as familiar with written instructions as I am (I always used charts for cables and patterns). I had to start 2 times anew because I got confused with the counting while following the written instructions. It’s actually an easy pattern, but you need to keep track of the rows.

• Another thing I wondered about was, why the K1tbl (RS) are knit as “normal” purl stitches in the WS rows? Why are they not P1tbl-stitches? I noticed that when I just purl those stitches in the back rows, my stitches get much more “irregular” as when I knit P1tbl in WS. I tried both, P1tbl looks nicer - for me.

“Because I like the way it looks, twisted every other row. Frankly, I also like that it is easier to do. :)”

My knitting looks very bumpy though doing this, so I will stick to my “k1tbl (RS)/ p1tbl (WS)-approach.

The photo with the blue and red lines shows the differences.

Edit: It turned out that it’s most probably because of the different yarn I’m using - the DK version of MTosh Merino. The pattern calls for the single-ply Merino yarn.

• Helpful comment by knittingtastic on shaping the shoulders:

“So, for size 1 you work 8 repeats followed by rows 1-14, then work 20 rows of shoulder shaping. The cable chart is 16 rows, so you have now worked 10 repeats of the cable chart plus 2 rows as shown. You then cast off the neck stitches thus ending the cable panel.”

June 2015: Still working on the front. Had wrist pain, so a long pause.

I had problems with the front part shaping of the neck and the stitch count.
I reached the point where I just had 68 sts (for size S) left on each side of the neck, and where I needed to knit the next 3 rows “Patt to end” plus the 4th row as dec row. Then the pattern instructions said “1 st dec each side” so after repeating those 4 rows further 7 times (as instructed) I would end up with 60 sts each side of the neck.

So far this made sense to me, but… I wondered if I would need to continue the “k2tog”/”ssk” RS-decrease at the borders while knitting the 3 rows “patt to end”. Because doing this, wouldn’t the decreases go too fast?
Or should I knit the borders without this decrease, so just doing the decrease in the 4th row on WS? But then it wouldn’t be “pattern to end”??

Well, I tried both: without decreases at the borders (as established in pattern), the stitch count doesn’t change at all, I guess because of the yarn-overs. So keep knitting the established pattern and all will be fine.

July 18: FINISHED! This sweater is very lovely, but I had just too much figuring out to do, and though the knitting itself is quite easy (even as a not very experienced knitter like me), the construction gave me quite a headache. Others reported the pattern to be very easy though, so I’m quite sure, it’s just my lack of experience with english patterns (first sweater in english for me).

And just for convenience: There are two errata noted at the KAL-thread, which I want to repeat here, as you might not see them:

CHART UPDATE: Row 13, stitch 37 should be worked as k1tbl.
NECK EXTENSION UPDATE: Next row (WS): RH side; Patt to last 4 sts and place the 56 (66, 78) sts just worked on a holder. LH side; Place all sts on holder. Continue on 4 sts for RH neck extension.