Very standard colour choices with a straightforward pattern that I’ve gathered together over the last couple of years, cherry picking the bits of other plain patterns that work for me. Love the yarn, love the socks.

Planned changes from Blue Lagoon Stripy Socks:

○ Like the contrast toes, so this time have chocolate lime for toes/heels/cuffs.

○ Not keen on more open weave of leg section on 2.75mm, so sticking with 2.5mm throughout but will keep an extra few stitches.

Things to remember for next time:

○ Can use one 100g ball of WYS 4ply for main yarn for two pairs of socks, as long as I use contrast yarn for longish toes/cuffs as well as heels.

○ Rounded toes are easier to keep identical by doing TAAT on circs (use both ends of yarn if only one ball) - knit on to dpns before switching to main yarn, then swap between the two for each section (foot, foot increases, heel & heel decreases, leg, cuff) then no need to split the contrast yarn into two balls.

○ Avoid holes on toe up socks at top of decreases by ending flap a round early and switching stitches to opposite needles when knitting final decreases on each side.

○ 2.5mm dpns for leg section with a couple of extra stitches (gained through heel increases and not doing all decreases) makes much more even sock texture than switching to 2.75mm for leg.

○ Only do one full round of contrast colour at cuff before starting ribbing.

○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○
Working notes:

Turkish cast on (14 stitches per needle) on 2.5mm knitpro zing circs, TAAT toe sections in contrast yarn, chocolate lime, using usual rounded toe increase pattern - six rounds after final increase to 68, during which I knitted each sock individually on to four/five 2.5mm knitpro zing dpns - before switching to main yarn (mojito) by knitting 3 stitches with both, so 30 more rounds to first increases instead of 36. Marker on 1 of each 10.

Yellow marker on start of first increase round. First increase you knit to is right gusset, increases are lifted increases at heel edge, taken from within gusset.

Increase gusset to 17 stitches before switching to contrast yarn for heel triangle, turn and decreases. Would ideally have 16 gusset increases, but this doesn’t give enough length for the foot. Better to knit more foot before increases - approx four more rounds so numbers are toe increases +6 rnds in contrast; st st for 34 rnds; 16 increases for gusset = 32 rnds; so total foot length is toe increases, plus 72 rnds, plus triangle.

Eye of partridge heel, decreasing til there are three left before markers.

At end of purl/slip row which leaves 3 stitches before marker, switch to main yarn for knit/return row. Didn’t do this so had to use contrast yarn for first round across instep to marker (which doesn’t show as same colour as this stripe, but this stripe will now be a round wider than others!)

(Tangent:
Fingers crossed there will be 25g left of each half ball when the leg section is long enough - if so, should be able to get two pairs (main yarn, with contrast toes/heels/cuffs). Currently 29g left on one, but I’d prefer to have another repeat of the stripes.
Added the extra repeat, ended at the same point (end of cream stripe immediately before the darkest green/chocolate lime shade). Leftovers now weigh 26/27g, as does other ball from second sock, ended at exactly the same point. Presuming both balls from same 100g ball, this means less than 50% used so therefore enough to make another pair - as long as these are long enough in the foot.
After weaving in ends etc each sock weighs 34g, presumably 25g main colour plus 9g contrast per sock
End of tangent!)

Knit on to avoid holes, switching stitches to opposite needles immediately before SSK on both gussets. Leave extra two stitches as they are - this means stitch count for heel is 38, instep is 32, (total 70) and this increased size makes leg section looser. Only works on plain though, as otherwise stitch count is not divisible by 4, in which case switch yarns at end of purl/slip row which leaves 2 stitches before marker. Even plain leg leaves an issue with ribbing due to 70 not dividing by 4 - could do 1x1 rib instead of 2x2…
● Maths fail - instep is 34 stitches (half of 68) not 32, therefore leg is 72 stitches, not 70. Only noticed when decreased two stitches in pre-ribbing chocolate lime and still didn’t have an even 2x2 rib!

Switch to contrast yarn and did 2 full rnds chocolate lime before starting 2x2 rib - decreases on first of these rounds.

● Don’t like the line of choc lime this leaves straight before ribbing - had assumed this would ripple too but it hasn’t. Next time, one full round of contrast (including any decreases spread evenly) before starting 2x2 rib.