Handdyed rhythm -
(Foot) 36 rounds before increases begin. h=handdyed, p=plain/poppy seed
6h 1p 5h 2p 4h 3p 3h 4p 2h 5p 1h
This means using 21rounds of the handdyed for each foot.
(Leg) 60 rounds between last decrease and start of ribbing.
Doing the same rhythm in the opposite direction as the foot would only take 36rounds, too short for leg (24 short). Increase widest stripe to 7rounds?
1h 7p 2h 6p 3h 5p 4h 4p 5h 3p 6h 2p 7h 1p(ribbing), takes 56rounds - this would be fine, but does mean 21+28rounds of handdyed altogether per sock - do I have enough for this?
50g main colour usually does entirety of foot (inc increase rounds) and leg - this is 36 (foot), 56 (ish leg), plus 32 increasing rounds. Even if you ignore the increased yard usage on the increase rounds, this is 124rounds per sock, 248 rounds all together. 248÷50, which is fractionally under 5 rounds per gram, so 20g gives just under 100rounds, 50 per sock, and I’ve calculated I’ll need 49 rounds per sock. That’s what you call cutting it fine!
17.09g left after foot of sock one.
13.1g left after foot of sock two.
7.3g left after leg of sock one. (Sock one used 9.71g of the mini skein)
- 1.69g of handdyed left!
Sock one: 16st increased and even round complete.
Sock two: Marker in first return ‘real’ round. Started ribbing.

Yarn:

○ Using WYS 4ply Poppyseed for toes,heels and cuffs (as well as most of the rest) - love WYS 4ply. Soft to work with but hardwearing - I’ve found it perfect for socks and means if I go through the toes/heels it’ll be much easier to either dig some up from the stash or buy some.

○ Contrast yarn is a 20g mini skein (handdyed) from Etsy

○ 68 stitches, even though the handdyed might be fractionally thinner than the WYS.

Needles:

○ Have been using 2.5mm dpns as usual with WYS despite WYS ball band recommending 3.25mm

Changes for next time:

○

Pattern:

○ Cast on 2AAT toes on 2.5mm circs (14 st per needle, Turkish Cast on, inc 1, 3, 1, 3, all, 1, 3, all, 1, 3, all, 1, all, all, 1). Knit on to 2.5mm dpns after increases (12 more rnds for long toes) then work sections on each sock in turn.

○ 36 rnds(after long toes) before first increase, then lifted inc from within gusset at far edge (two stitches in from end marker). Inc every other round, 16 stitches for each gusset.

○ Fleegle heel directions. (Knit 2 past centrally placed marker, k2tog, k; then turn, slip 1 pw then purl to 2 past central marker, SSP, p; turn and repeat closing gap each time.

○ End when 2 stitches left on each side, but on the knit row immediately after decreasing to 2, slide those two straight across to the left needle, switch yarn and knit with the main yarn across the top of the heel. When you reach the last 3 stitches before the marker, switch third and second stitch to opposite needles before SSK to avoid holes. Double check stitch count after final decreases - should be 68.

○ Knit for between 50 and 60 rnds(depending on stripe pattern and colours) before switching to contrast yarn for a single round before 2x2 ribbing for 21 rnds. JSSBO.

Managing colour changes

○ Going back to holding both yarns together and knitting for two or three stitches when switching yarn. THEN tucking both ends back/forward to get out of weaving in (hopefully)
○ Adjusted to catching new colour for two stitches BEFORE switch, then 3 held double and at same time and for another 12ish stitches tucking back/forwards. This (mostly) closes the gap to the right of the first doubled stitch.

Working notes:
○ Sock one start of increase rounds (inc round in progress). Gussets not yet marked. Marker indicates first stitch of first increase round.