Notes to Self: Don’t do any waist shaping to get a boxier look, and start the lace a bit higher than pattern. Also, do sleeves when you are partway down the body to determine how long the sweater can be.

Advice on alternating skeins: “I would like to add, that when I alternate skeins I do a YO (bring the yarn to the front) with the yarn I am finished with and then pickup the new skein and knit with it. When I come back around I drop the YO. This helps with the tension so it doesn’t start to pucker.

Also, if I am knitting a sweater in the round and there is no side seam, I make one by adding 1 extra stitch on each side, under the arm. Mark this extra stitch with markers and purl it. The purl pulls the yarn together and you don’t see the stitch. This is a great place to alternate skeins and it also keeps the sweater from stretching out of shape.“

Swatching on size 4 Darn Pretty DPNs to see if I can get gauge. I’ve got some primo sport in Roundtable if the crew doesn’t work out.

Row and stitch gauge perfect after blocking.

Seed stich: k the p’s and p the k’s

I was going to knit a 38, based on Thea’s explanation of the size and I’m going to back off and knit a 36.

1-17: it has taken me all this time to knit the 5” seed stitch collar. In my defense, I’ve knit a hat, a significant bit on my Olivia, and close to two skeins’ worth of a cowl in the time since I started Vodka Lemonade as well. But i’m slow at seed stitch although I enjoy it. I hope the rest of it will come along more smartly.

Tin Can Knits notes for dividing for sleeves