gauge: 16 stitches = 4”
CO 144 (must be divisible by 8)

Going with Carro’s mods.

June 20 – I just took this off the needles & held with scrap yarn to see how the join looks where I started with the second ball of yarn. I tried it on and the join looks okay but I am nervous about how loose this is. After so many fitted projects I have no idea how loose this should be to hang nicely in the end. I’m going to keep going with what I have and I’ll see how it’s going when I’m done the second ball.

One thing about this yarn is it’s very obvious where I’ve joined a new ball of yarn.

June 26 – Tried it on today and the square shape of the body is deceiving, it’s actually quite fitted. I posted a photo at the 2 skein point.

split for sleeves
K row x 3, P row, Lace

I had trouble with the lace (see below after the line).
10 stitches each side for shoulders

July 13 – Looks like I will have to tear the bottom back and reknit. I tried to hide the holes where I joined a new ball of yarn but to no avail; they are just too obvious. Sigh … I was really looking forward to wearing this!

Oct 23 : Rip. Started reknit.

Feb 19 : Done!! A perfect spring sweater. I’m sure I knit this 2.5 times. Really didn’t like the yarn (it’s splitty and unforgiving) but love the colour and fit.

July 1 – I’m having trouble with the lace pattern. I can’t figure it out from the english translation by sparklink02. I’ve been googling and I found a forum that has a bunch of foreign language knitting terms translated to English. You can find it here. I tried a little translating of the original french pattern, got a little frustrated, then I went here because I remembered seeing this rabbit lace pattern on latsami’s Opium Poppy.

After all that, I finally figured it out!! Row 3 was the one I had trouble with. Here’s what I did, as detailed as possible. I hope it makes sense:

Rabbit Lace Pattern:

Row 1: I gave this 2 edge stitches. So, k2, (k2tog, sl 1, k1, pass slipped stitch over the k1, k4), repeat
Row 2: p all
Row 3: k2, then:

• m1 by putting the right needle through the middle of the next two stitches (in row 1 these would have been the k2tog and the passed over k1), YO and pull through and keep on right needle – do this underneath the “bar” between the two stitches.

• k2 – the 2 stitches you knit are the ones you just m1 between (what would have been the k2tog and the passed over k1 in Row 1).

  So, what you have on your right needle is (in order):

  k, k, the YO, k, k (The YO actually crosses over what was the k2tog stitch from row 1)

• now, m1 with the left needle in the same place and same way as the first m1. To do this you put the left needle into the same hole, YO, pull the yarn through. Transfer this stitch onto the right needle. This new stitch crosses what was the passed over k1 from row 1.

• k the next 4 stitches. What you have on your needle now is:

  k, k, YO, k, k, YO, k, k, k, k

• repeat (not including first k2 - those are the edge)

Row 4 – p all
Row 5 – k all
Row 6 – p all

repeat rows – every second repeat you jog the pattern over 4 stitches

Piece of cake!