Gauge: 25 sts x 29 rows. I have no idea how to smash six more rows into my gauge without completely fucking up my stitch gauge, so here are my mods:
40 rows before increases = ~5.5”.
5 row increase repeats instead of 6 rows, down to 4-row increase repeats for the last two ribbed and 3-row increase repeats for the three increases leading up to the underarm dart. First underarm dart as patterned; increasing every round for second repeat of underarm dart.
22 rows before neck split. Working back and front of neck split simultaneously; 60 rows before rejoin. 22 rows after neck split.
Note: to get all of the cast-on stitches done at the dart, I cast them all on at once provisionally at the end of my last WS row. Turned work, did p3-k3-p3-k6-p3-k3-p3 and began row 1 of dart. Joined in the round after the k2tog.
Dart completed (first repeat with all decreases in subsequent rounds, second repeat as patterned), now I get to try to replicate all my other mods in reverse WHEE.
Picked up 108 sts on each side for a total of 12 + 108 + 12 = 132 sts on each side, decreased next round as k4, (k2tog k7) 11x, k2tog, k3 between Ribs.
Folded hem: at the point where the ribbed hem would have begun, work R2 10 times instead. Purl one round. The next 9 rounds you probably could just knit, but I modified R2 as follows:
- Knit to 1 st before Rib, p1, k3, p3, k3, p1. Repeat around.
I bound off with a standard knitted bind-off, but when I worked then knit stitch, I knitted the stitch together with the purl bump on the WS of the corresponding stitch 11 rows up from the purl row. This kept it from flaring out too much, though I still needed to block it to get it to lie completely flat.