“Planck Time” because I need to make this quickly!! ;)

I. Adore. This. Yarn. HUGE fan, here…

My only caution is that I think this is more of a fingering weight than a sport weight. The plain BFL fingering (non-superwash) is more of a laceweight than a fingering. I had originally planned on using the sport and fingering weights held together to achieve a worsted weight gauge but things were far too loose for a cardigan. That said, it would be a lovely combo for a shawl. Just sayin’

8.5 rows/inch

Square-Set/Peasant Sleeve cardi with some texture and slipped stitches; BMFA BFL Sport, Griege and True Blood Red (because the Griege yardage wasn’t enough by itself!).

Textured Pattern: Shadow Rib
Tubular Cast on for 1X1 Ribbing at bottom and on sleeves.
Working this bottom up in one piece.

Red Yarn -- Epic Tubular Cast on (technique found here): 140 sts to make a 280 st 1X1 rib. I actually used JMCO with US 6 needles and held sts on one needle while I worked back and forth on US 4 needles for a few rows with the sts on the other needle, then folded and joined the other needle’s sts.

Work ribbing to 2” and increase to 291 (+ 2 selvage sts).

Work 15” Shadow Rib. Work half the mosaic motif and divide front and back pieces. Finish the mosaic on each piece (breaking the yarn in order to do so) and then carry on with the Griege colorway to finish the yoke and sleeves.

Gradient Mosaic (actually a Shadow Mosaic) is all done in Garter Stitch. Motif source: Barbara Walker’s Mosaic Knitting. Knitting this while plagued with a bad, nasty cold, I now realize I skipped a few rows of the first half of the motif (11-14). :/ I’m just going to call this omission a design element. Phoo!

Three needle bind off at shoulders.

Sleeve Cuffs: JMCO 30 st each needle for 60 sts 1X1 ribbing via tubular cast on. Work 1.75” ribbing, put sts on a holder and will join them to the sleeve, worked from the top down, with a three needle bind off.

Picked up 160 sts around the arm hole and worked 4 rounds of shadow ribbing before beginning the decreases. Used this calculator to plot the decreases:

Sleeve Decreases
8.5 rounds/inch, 189 Rounds, 160 sts at arm hole, 78 sts at cuff

1 st on either side of round marker every 4th round 31 times (124 rounds = 62sts decreased), 98 sts on needle
1 st on either side of round marker every 5th round 10 times (65 rounds = 26sts decreased), 78 sts on needle

Total stitches decreased = 82
Stitches decreased each side of marker = 41

With right sides together, sleeve and cuff sts on separate circular needles, and using a 3-needle bind off, I attached the 60 st cuff to the 78 st sleeve by K2Tog from sleeve needle with 1 st from cuff needle evenly spaced around the cuff as I worked the bind off itself. Used this formula:

[k3, k2tog, (k2, k2tog) 2X] 6X

Worked the cuff bind off as loosely as possible. Weaving in the ends included sewing closed any holes that remained when joining either end of this BO round.

For the front bands, I decided to use Anna Zilboorg’s Perfect Buttonhole technique so I’m knitting stockinette bands with a facing. Picked up 138 sts from the right side with a US 3 needle and knitted 10 rows in st st, knitted a turn row, and will knit 11 rows (just a shade wider than the public side so I can enclose the pick up “seam” within the facing before I sew it shut.

Made seven 4-st button holes on left front band. Pretty proud of these, too! The neckband will also have a buttonhole.

I worked the neck band the same way as I did the sleeve cuffs, but added a one row buttonhole for the top button.

Steam blocked the front bands and neck. Added my label, sewed on the buttons with a yarn shank.