This is my first test for Olga. Such a cute cardigan!

The designer calls out an “invisible” increase (m1invL)

Do the increase as a normal left leaning lifted increase (LLI) like this.

Stitch counts don’t include the steek stitches. I somehow missed that direction in the pattern and it confused me at first.

I use Tatyana’s (Heavenlyclassy on Ravelry) technique for knitting with two colors as shown in this video. Note that this method only works when knitting in the round.

Needles:

Size 3 US: First few rounds of the neckband as well as the front bands

Size 5 US: Neck short rows, and the rest of sweater body except for colorwork

Size 6 US: All colorwork

Size 2 US: Bind-off using Jeny’s SSBO for lower ribbed band

Size 1 US: Sleeve cuffs, including Jeny’s SSBO. (Note that I would have used size 2 US needles if I was not running out of the CC yarn.)

What I did differently:

• My yoke measures 8.5” to the point where I separated body from sleeves - because I’m tall.

• The color order of my steek stitches was not what the designer intended. But it doesn’t really matter because none of the steek stitches will show once the bands are added.

• I find it MUCH easier to cut my steek stitches BEFORE doing the machine reinforcing stitches. Since we have 7 steek stitches in this pattern, there’s no danger of the knitted fabric unraveling more than a little bit if you don’t overhandle the garment. I did hand running stitch rows (before cutting) using perle cotton in the “ditches” where I would be picking up stitches for the front bands. Then (after cutting the steek down the middle), I did a machine zig-zag stitch row near the perle cotton running stitch. This helps keep the edges from curling or fraying any further. Lastly, I used my serger to overlock the edges and trim off the excess knitted fabric in one step. This last step is not necessary if you don’t have a serger because those edges will be completely enclosed in a knitted facing on each front band the way I did it. (Note that this yarn is too thin to make a single thickness front band.)

• I ran low on the CC yarn - probably due to the fact that my method of doing stranded knitting takes a bit more yarn than the normal method. I was left with only 55 yards to make both front bands. Obviously, I could not follow the pattern directions with only 27.5 yards for each band. I divided my remaining small CC ball into two equal parts and started knitting the first band, hoping for the best. I made it work, but just barely.

• Since I had so little yarn for the front bands, I did them similar to the technique shown in this video (11:50 to 17:45 minutes). The technique is further explained in this video from 37:39 to 40:35 minutes. I didn’t do the crocheted part. Instead, I just did the knitted part as follows:

Picked up 106 stitches along each front edge using size 3 US needle, skipping every 3rd stitch when picking up.

Knit first row from the wrong side (will appear like a purl row on the right side)

Four rows back and forth: K row, P row, K row, P row

Purl one row (this will be the turning edge)

Four rows of facing: P row, K row, P row, K row

I did not cast off. Instead (to reduce bulk) do the following:

Before cutting yarn, run a long tail through the live stitches. Then tack down facing on inside by hand using sewing thread. The overlocked/trimmed edge will be enclosed inside the knitted facing, making a very neat and sturdy front band. This (mostly thin) yarn really needs a facing to be sturdy enough for the front bands.

Repeat this for the other front band.

Women (buttons on left band, loops on right band):

Sewed my 8 half ball buttons on the left front band about 2.75” apart. Placed markers on the right front band where button loops were needed. Using size 3 steel crochet hook, I slip stitched into each stitch along the back edge of the right front band, switching to 5 open chain stitches where I had placed the buttonhole markers. These formed the button loops.

Measurements:

Body length: 12” from underarm (8.5” + 3.5” ribbing)

Sleeve length: 18.5” from underarm (11.5” + 4” colorwork + 3” ribbed cuff)

Here’s a good way to pick up sleeve stitches without holes.

When knitting stranded colorwork, I hold the contrast (dominant) color in my left hand (to make sure it’s on top).

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