Pattern is top-down, seamless and in the round. There’s an option to do the top/first color in pearl stitch. I opted to knit the entire pullover in stockinette stitch. The back necklne is raised using German short rows.

What I did differently:

• The pattern stitch gauge was 21 sts x 28 rnds = 4” My stitch gauge was 19.3 sts x 28 rnds = 4”. This was due to me using smaller needles and DK weight yarn rather than fingering weight.

• I did a tubular cast on at the neck. See video tutorial link below.

• I used a single strand of yarn throughout. Since my yarn was heavier (DK weight), I used much smaller needles than recommended in the pattern. My stitch gauge was (intentionally) off. So the body of this sweater measured about 27” in circumference. Therefore, this will fit a 3-year- old toddler or even a small 4-year-old.

• During the short rows, there are some raglan increases done while on the wrong side of the work. The pattern says to do these with M1R and M1L. I did the WS increases as M1pR and M1pL instead.

• I did not start the second color until after separating body and sleeves. The pattern was a bit confusing as to when this should be done. But it does not look bad the way I did it. The designer intends for the stripe to be at the bottom of the yoke. The stripe should be the last 12 rounds before separating body and sleeves.

• Body for this size has 130 sts around. Right before starting the lower ribbing, I increased 22 sts evenly all around (about every 7th st) for a total of 152 sts. I almost always do this because it prevents the lower ribbing from pulling inward and allows me to use a smaller needle for the ribbing. This trick always makes the lower ribbing hang better and look nicer. I normally use M1L for the increases, and they are virtually invisible on the round preceeding the lower ribbing.

• Decreased 2 sts every 7th round on sleeves (8 times). 16 sts total decreased before sleeve ribbing.

• I did 10 rounds of ribbing for lower edge and sleeve cuffs. Please note that there’s an error in the pattern for all sizes. Sleeves must end with an even number of stitches in preparation for K1, P1 ribbing all around. Therefore, I did one extra round with a single decrease before starting the sleeve cuff ribbing - ending with 38 sts instead of 39.

Needles Used:

Size 2.5 US - Neckband ribbing

Size 4 US - Body and sleeves

Size 1 US - Lower ribbing, sleeve ribbing, cuff bind off (JSSBO)

Size 0 US - Bind off lower ribbing only (JSSBO)
Probably should have used a size 1 US.

Measurements before blocking:

Chest circumference - 27”

Hip circumference - 26” (due to ribbing)

Armhole depth - 5.5”

CB to underarm - 5.125” (not including neck ribbing)

CF to underarm - 4.5” (not including neck ribbing)

Side length from underarm - 9”

Sleeve length from underarm - 9.5”

Neckline circumference - 16” (base of neckband)

Neckband ribbing - .75”

Bottom and sleeve ribbing - 1.5”

Front raglan (diagonal) - 6.25”

Back raglan (diagonal) - 6.5”

Stripe - 1.625”

Gold color (body below stripe, including ribbing) - 7.125”

Video tutorial - Neat joggless join for wide stripes knit in the round

This is my very favorite tubular cast on (in the round) demonstrated by Suzanne Bryan. It’s super stretchy and very easy: