Update: I will weigh remaining yarn when I return home. I decided to not do a border, and I love it!

Notes: I increased the sizing of this blanket to fit a queen size bed.

Ok so hopefully this is correct - but is from memory and scattered notes. The best thing is to just be consistent so that no matter what all the squares line up.

For Square #1, CO 61 st (1 stitch is for the corner decrease). Each square has 30 stripes, aka 61 stitches for a whole square. This made for about 7 inch squares when blocked.

For the squares that you pick up stitches on, such as all squares after #1:

#2-5 you will PU 30 or 31 sts and then CO 30 or 31 sts, following the pattern for the substituted stitch count. (I can’t remember which one I did, sorry) = 61

For Squares #6, #11, #16, #21, CO 30 stitches and PU 31 on left.

On Squares #7-10, 12-15, 17-20, 22-25 - PU 30 stitches from the square below and 31 stitches from the left square.

LINK: How to carry yarn up the side of your work

TIP: Use the color from the square below to start the new row (depending on color change) so you have less ends to weave in. Pay attention b/c sometimes the color is the same starting color for a panel, but it can also switch.

I changed a few colors: (I believe the eggplant for purple, rouge for red, and solstice for blue) because the colors were sold out but also because I liked the idea of the colors going light inside to dark outside and I didn’t like the red stripe that goes in the middle of the original blanket pattern. Jewel tones are also cool and a lot of other ravelers have great colors!

Other Tips:
If you are knitting the original size: 4 1/2 inch squares

50 inch - 4 inch border = 46 inches
46\10 squares = 4.6 inches

1 square must be roughly 4.5 inches to meet yarn requirements. Be careful to weave in ends as you knit and use VERY SHORT TAILS b/c you may use up all of the yarn. If you knit loosely check gauge and go down a needle size. I have heard that dark blue and purple run low.
Carry yarn up squares for each panel rather than cutting them to save yarn and time. Twist when doing a color change.

If you are knitting a larger blanket: buy twice the yarn and you can knit without fear of running out of yarn :)

I had enough left over yarn of everything but definitely could have run out of the blues and purples/reds.

For the Mitered Squares:
On the very last row of each block, I use the color that the next block picks up with to finish decrease, and it then becomes the first stitch of the next block, helping with color changes.

To avoid the stripes from ‘jogging’ on the inside squares (where you PU stitches on both sides), first: PU 30 stitches, then as you turn the corner, PU 31 sts - picking up the first stitch from the 1st stripe of color. DO NOT pick up the (center) stitch from the square below, this will create the jog.

Practice making two squares (#1. #2.) and then cast on another panel square (#6 & #7) to make sure your technique works and that you don’t end up with zig zag/off set stripes. The pattern looks best when all lines match! You get an extra optical illusion effect with diamonds/triangles that I just love.

Alternatively, some have knit all squares facing the same direction knitting 10 squares straight up and down, and all panels are picked up so there is now sewing at the end. the lines make neat diagonals across the blanket vs. Diamonds.

LINK: How to Seam Garter Stitch

LINK : How to Pick Up stitches in Garter