#onekaltorulethemall from the Cherry Purls Podcast
#myfavoritecolorisoctoberkal & #myfavecolorisoctoberkal from the Woolen Homestead Podcast
#sockcrazykal2018 from the Crazy Sock Lady Podcast
#boxosockskal2018 from the Yarngasm Podcast
#freeallthehouseelves from the Yarn Hoarder Podcast
#sawktalk & #sockbash from the Grocery Girls Podcast - Sept’s Theme is My Favorite Holiday - “Thanksgiving”

Adding this to The Corner of Craft’s #stashmaskal2018. Sept 1 cast on. Yarn purchased Oct 20, 2017.

The perfect socks for someone born in the year of the dragon.

x cast on 64 (don’t count the slip knot or the first twist if you don’t use knots). Slip this to the back needle before working round 1. Work it together with the last stitch as k2togtbl.

The x-cast on is the reverse of the German Twisted cast on. It’s easier for long numbers of stitches because it doesn’t over twist the yarn. Hold like a long tail cast on, but wrap the yarn all the way around the thumb counter clockwise, creating an x in front. Go under both strands before grabbing the back yarn. Re-wrap the thumb, repeat.

It took me 2 tries to get the second cuff to almost slant stripe like the first cuff. The first time, the color repeat stripes were stacking exactly on top of each other.

In the scales section, to shift right, work the scale wraps loosely. To shift to the left, work the stitches snugly.

For the heel flap, instead of slipping 1 at the beginning of every row, I doubled the first stitch like a german short row.

I purled the very last stitch of the heel turns and then I picked up the stitches on the sides of the heel flap purl wise.

How I set up my gussets for 2 at a time, magic loop:

Across the front needle -
Sock 1 - R needle 2 stitches, stitch marker, 14 st R tail

Sock 2 - 14 stitch L tail, stitch marker, L needle 2 stitches

Across the back needle -
Sock 2 - L needle 3, the rest of the L needle 1 stitches

Sock 1 - the rest of the R needle 3 stitches, beginning of round stitch marker, R needle 1 stitches

Starting each time you pass the beginning of round marker, work R needle 1 as you finish the back needle. Turn, work R needle 2, right 14 stitches, switch socks, work left 14 stitches, work L needle 2, turn, work L needle 3, and k the needle 1 plain stitches, switch socks, work the rest of the R needle 3 stitches to the beg of round marker.

How do you know when you’re done? On the second sock, work the 14 stitch tail, and count all the rest of the stitches for that sock as you come to them. I need to get down to 50 stitches for my 64 st socks.

Do the make1 stitches on the back needle until there are 32 sts across the back needle (64 size) then make 1 in the front needles. The bar is between the front and back needles.

So, k the back of the L sock, m1, switch socks, m1, k the back of the R sock.

Toe. I started my toes after the tail patterns touched the edge of my socks.

I kept doing the increase in the scale pattern. This meant I was only decreasing 1 stitch across the front when I was decreasing 2 across, so I skipped the decreases across the back every few rows to keep my counts even. This made a more gradual rounded toe. When I got down to 28 stitches front and back, I stopped increasing and went to decreases every other row per the patten.

When I got to 18 sts, I decreased every round to 12 (24 total).