Will probably use the Darkest as my #1 - Pic 2

#1 - Mare (dark blues, browns, and greys)
#2 - Cove (baby blues, sea foam greens, tans, greys)
#3 - Farm Boy (multi)
#4 - Fog (greys, baby blues, sea greens, dark blues, greys)
#5 - Bark (tans, browns, yellows)

Or based on yardage used - Pic 3
MATERIALS
Yarn: 5 skeins of fingering weight yarn in 5
different colors. The approx. yardage required for
each color is as follows:
Color 1 (Mare): 390 yards (356 m).
Color 2 (Bark): 250 yards (229 m).
Color 3 (Farm Boy): 420 yards (385 m).
Color 4 (Cove): 390 yards (356 m).
Color 5 (Fog): 280 yards (256 m).

Final choice after seeing clue 1:
#1 - Mare (dark blues, browns, and greys)
#2 - Bark (tans, browns, yellows)
#3 - Farm Boy (multi)
#4 - Fog (greys, baby blues, sea greens, dark blues, greys)
#5 - Cove (baby blues, sea foam greens, tans, greys)

Row 41 beads (b1, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo)
Miyuki size 5 triangles TR1831 blue color-lined metallic.

Clue 1 weights after completing each full section.

#1 - Mare 108.3 g. 91.0 g
#2 - Bark 102.6 g. 98.1 g
#3 - Farm Boy 100.9 g 82.7 g
#4 - Fog 108.9 g. 107.9 g
#5 - Cove 106.5 g. 81.7 g

If count is off after an eyelet row double check no extra yo near center stitches.

Clue 2 weights after completing each full section.

#1 - Mare 82.8 g
#2 - Bark 55.3 g
#3 - Farm Boy 63.2 g
#4 - Fog 104.4 g
#5 - Cove 61.8 g

Clue 3 - plan to skip row’s 3-4 in the last eyelet repeat before the Twisted Rib section.

Notes for next time - don’t skip, just do in garter to match the other side.

Clue 3 weights after completing each full section.

#1 - Mare 53.3 g 32.7 g
#2 - Bark 55.4 g not used
#3 - Farm Boy 41.3 g 19.0 g
#4 - Fog 81.7 g. 59.1 g
#5 - Cove 61.6 g not used

Clue 4 weights after completing each full section.

#1 - Mare g
#2 - Bark g
#3 - Farm Boy g
#4 - Fog 32.5 g 4.9 g
#5 - Cove 42.2 g 26. g

I had almost 60 g before starting the dark cross. Worked 7-12 once more instead of twice more, and then worked 7-11 and the final wrong side row. I have 3 rows of holes instead of 4. 32.5 g left after 1st side. 4.9 g left after second side before any of the clue 5 joining rows. (I worked both sides of my clue 5 almost at the same time, so that I made sure I had enough of each color to stay mirrored).

Notes for next time - the last time through, skip rows 9-10 (one garter ridge), because the next clue adds one garter ridge to this color in the joining. So there is 4 ridges on one side of the holes, and 3 on the other. I do however prefer the look of the 3 rows of holes to the 4 rows of holes, even if I have enough yarn to do the complete section.

Clue 5 weights after completing each full section.

#1 - Mare 9.4 g
#2 - Bark 24.4 g
#3 - Farm Boy 0 g ran out after row 9 of each section.
#4 - Fog 0 g ran out after the joining rows of clue 5.
#5 - Cove 10.5 g

I only had 3 colors left after the beginning of clue 5, so I changed the last several colors.

Used color 2 when I ran out of color 3 for rows 10-24 stripes.

For the stripes, I knit the last stitch of the row with the next row’s color. Cross the strands when switching.

I used color 1 for the twisted rib section.

Pattern color / My color
Stripes 1, 2, 1, 2, 1, 2 break / 2, 1, 2, 1, 2 , 1 break
Color 1 / Color 2
Eyelets 4 / Eyelets 1
Color 1 break / Color 2 break
Color 3 / Color 5

26” x 74” before blocking
26” x 88” to 21” x 100” after blocking
(It is very stretchy in either direction, and it is the nature of the 100% merino I used to grow.)

Notes about how I switch colors - When I finish the old color, I loosely tie a half hitch around the second to the last stitch in that row. This blends in with the garter bumps, and prevents the edge from getting loose and wonky. Weave this tail in later. I fold the new color around the tip of one of my needles, and after untwisting each side a bit, I ply the end back on it’s self. I pull this tiny loop through my edge stitch as my first k1. Then making sure my twist is nice and snug on the new yarn, I work the next several stitches and drop the rest of the tail. This method works-in half of my tails as I go, and is nearly invisible. When I come back to that first loop, I make sure it is twisted a couple of extra times before I k into it.

Notes about my edge - I am slipping 1 purl wise with yarn in front, then I move my yarn to the back and continue the row. This creates an edge of twisted stitches.

Notes about my increases - If you are wondering how my center line looks so even, it’s because I use e loops and forward loops for my make 1’s. For more detailed directions, look here.

Notes about my Yarn - if you are concerned that I ran out of 2 of my colors, and had to do a few less rows here and there, I expected to. Most of my skeins were just shy of the 400 yards to 100 g weight, but I really wanted to use up stash, and by modifying the last 2 clues just a bit, I was able to use the colors I wanted to.

Notes for next time - don’t use 100% merino as it has a tendency to grow. Or possibly go down to a size 4 or 5.