Swatch notes

11 sts:2” on 3.75 needles knitted flat in background colour. I like the fabric on this needle size.

Tentative pattern notes

Back: Using 3.75mm needles cast on 77 sts on 3.75 needles. German short rows for back neck and shoulders = k63 turn, p50 turn, k5 turn, p5 turn until all sts used up, knit stocking stitch for a couple of rows, put on hold and start fronts.

Left front: Pick up and knit 17 sts from back neck, working with RS facing and from neck edge to shoulder. German short rows k4 turn, p to end, k5 past last short row stitch turn and purl to end until all sts used up. Work until armhole edge is 2” long, then start neckline increases 2 sts in from neck edge every 3 rows 5 times, then cable increase 2 sts twice, and then cable increase 11 sts once. Total left front stitches now 37. Keep on knitting straight until armhole edge = 6” then increase 1st 2 stitches in from armhole edge 4 times = 41 left front stitches.

Make right front to mirror left front.

Return to back and knit until back arm edge measures 6”, then increase 1 stitch 2 stitches in from each arm edge on next 4 rs rows. Total back stitches = 85.

Join in the round adding 10 stitches under each arm using cable cast on. Total body stitches = 187. Knit until 1” from under arm cable cast on, then work horizontal bust darts: 30 sts in from front edges turn, purl back, knit to 4 sts past last turn, turn and purl back, repeat until all stitches used up.

Contrast neck: In MC and using 3.25mm needles pick up and knit 42 stitches from left front, 42 from back and 42 from right front = 126 (has to be a multiple of 5 plus 1).

On next row (WS) p1 p1 wrapping yarn twice around needle, p2, p1 wrapping yarn twice around needle, p1. Repeat from * to end.

Next row, change to CC. K1, sl1 dropping extra loop, k1 yf K1 yf k1 into next st, sl1 dropping extra loop, k2, sl1 dropping extra loop. Repeat from * to last st, K1.

Next row, in CC. P1, sl1, p2, sl1 yb K5 yf, sl1, k2, sl1. Rep from * to last st, p1.

Next row, in CC. K1 sl1,k2, sl1 yf, p5, yb, sl1, k2, sl1 repeat from * to last st, k1.

Next row, in CC, p1, sl1, p2, sl1 yb k2tog, k3tog, past k2tog st over k3tog st, yf, sl1 p2, sl1 Rep from * to last st, p1

Next row, change to MC. K1, drop 1st slipped st, yb sl 2, drop next slipped stitch, pick up first slipped st on l/hand needle, slip 2 sts from r/h needle to l/h needle, then pick up 2nd slipped stitch, K5. Repeat from to end. Then hold the whole lot on spare cable and return to body of garment to continue.

Put in pockets where they look best. 20 sts for pockets.

Change to 3.5mm needles for the contrast yarn elements of lower hem pattern repeats, switching back to 3.75mm for MC of contrast pattern.

Sleeves: With 3.75mm cast on 66 sts, reducing to 36 sts @ cuffs over 17” = reduce 2 sts every 9 rounds. K45, turn, p23 turn. Do German short rows one stitch further on until a total of 15 sts remain unworked, then continue in the round, doing 1st set of decreases on 2nd round and every 9th following round until 46 stitches remain. Then put in 2 rows of contrast pattern using 3.5 mm needles.

With 3.5mm needles pick up 105 sts for rt button band. Knit 3 rows in garter stitch. Then make button holes using this technique

K 5, work buttonhole over 3 stitches, K10, repeat from asterisk 6 times, work final buttonhole, k 3 stitches.