Knit out of Columbia 5-ply handspun and dyed by me using Gaywool dyes. The cable pattern is the Coin Cable, but in blue, it must be full moons.
I am using mods suggested by others - cable panel in the back, longer length.
CO 134 instead of 114 to allow for cable draw in and for the decreases at the end of the ribbing to enable the pattern to flow from the ribbing into the cables. A set of 6 cables, 3 right cross on the right and 3 left cross on the left of the central purl ditch.
Started decreasing at 4.5” from cast on edge.
Decreased rate of increase on sleeves - forgot to take notes, but ended with about 2” narrower.
Picking up for the band and collar:
Ratio of 4 sts/5 rows for ribbing, 9 sts/10 rows for fronts, 1:1 for collar.
Place marker for increases at start of collar shaping, per comments by flickafish and others on their projects.
140 sts picked up along front (well, 143 on one front, but I just threw in 3 extra decreases on first row to even them up). 110 sts picked up along neck.
Used flickafish’s mods for collar, and added my short rows right away after picking up the bands to form a bit of a neck stand.
Reviewing photos in others projects, I note that many of the front bands are a bit wavy. I suspect that this is caused by binding off with larger needle which is needed to get the collar edge to lie flat. I plan to bind off the fronts on same needle, and firmly, and bind off the neck on shawl collar on a larger needle. In fact, I think I’ll work the collar on a larger needle, too, now that I’m past the neck stand.
Considering double breasted. I think I’ll proceed as if single breasted (can always sew buttons on as if it were dbl later) and see how deep the collar is when I get to a point where I’d finish it single. Some of the other project collars look rather shallow and I want a deep shawl - but to go deep, I need completely overlapping front bands, and those would look weird with just one line of buttons in the middle of the front.
Change of plans - still going double breasted, but decided to add buttonholes for both rows of buttons. But in reviewing many double breasted patterns, I find I like those that use just a few large buttons, not the row or 6-9 buttons and look military. I’ll put 4 buttons - a 2x2 set up - right at the waist shaping. This will emulate the belt used with the orginal design. I’m using the buttonhole described in a Knitting Daily tutorial for 2x2 ribbing. I’m going to try just dropping back the 4 sts (twice) that I need to create the first set of buttonholes, rather than frog about 8 very long rows.
Dropping back worked out well. Note the advice in the KD tutorial to be sure and catch the loose yarn from the Row 2 yo’s in the Row 3 k1, p1.
I added a couple extra rows to the right of the buttonholes rather than balancing them perfectly by row count. I figure the button will slide to the right side of the hole (seen from the front) and this will center them on the garment.
On the collar - I did use the next size up needle for the collar, keeping the smaller needle to just past the point of increases. This meant the front bands were firm while the collar had some more drape.
I increased in ribbing pattern until about 8 rows before the edge, stopping the increases at a point where I had just reached a full ribbing pattern, i.e. 2x2 knitxpurl all around. This made for a rounded edge rather than a pointier near-mitered corner at the point of increases. I wanted it to say shawl rather than lapel.
And in binding off, I bound off the front edges very firmly with the same smaller needle (a la’ Sally Melville) and then transitioned through the next size up needle for several stitches after getting to the collar but then going to yet one more size larger for the rest of the collar (reversing this process when I reached the other side) to make sure there was a firm edge to the front band so it won’t sag and a stretchy edge to the collar so it can move with me. It worked great!
Buttons were bought at Skeins - they pick up the purple tones that are behind the blues in the yarn just perfectly.