---After about 12-15 rows of stripes tore whole thing out to change the edge. The pattern’s slip stitch edge creates very uneven fabric, with different tension on right side than left. Started over with a tab and a 3 st garter followed by yarn-over, much better. Just remember to change st count by total of 2.
---Koigu produces a smaller (and tighter) fabric than yarn called for. So I added a number of rows at end to increase the overall size.
---The pattern as written calls for 17 sets of repeats at the start of the lace edge. This puts 8 on each side and puts a lace point centered over the spine central ridge. Because of this I added rows until I had correct number for 19 repeats of lace. If you only do enough for 18 repeats the lace edge pattern shifts AWAY from the center point and goes to sides. Do-able, but different. I wanted to maintain point in the middle.
---If you plot the stripe pattern as written it calls for a total of 98 rows ending with 297 stitches. The lace repeats have 16 stitches each. If you adjust your length use the formula to get to correct number of stitches:
---Your # of stitches minus 25 (the leftovers at right/left edge) divided by 16. Should work out to an odd number if you want point in center.
---My shawl started lace pattern at 329---so:
329st minus 25=304
304 divided by 16 = 19 repeats for lace
(plus I have 2 extra stitches on my edge for 3st garter edging per my note above :-)
---on the 4th & 8th round of main color I used 1 row of linen stitch to bring out a little subtle texture. (knit 1, slip 1 with yarn on right side)
---that went so well that on several of the following main color stripes I added a single row of a shiny red corded yarn in linen stitch and increased the bulk of those stripes to 3 rows, then 5 rows, then 3, then 5, then 3. Made a nice shift in stripe pattern. Then returned to pattern as written.
Blocking notes. In order to accentuate the scalloped look from transition of body to the lace I pinned each of those spots, but it’s not necessary.
---If you look at other knitter’s photos it appears there’s different ways to block/pin the edge points. I found I needed to tug the intermediate points into shape vigorously. Some knitters have been able to do without these additional points……I HAD TO or it would have been loosey-goosey and ruffly.
---I put a row of shiny red cord double crochet on the edge to highlight the wee bit of red in the body, but did this AFTER blocking. I liked the shiny look as it helps the silk sheen in the Koigu Mori stand out better. Then I added 1 row double crochet of main color and reblocked only the edge.