Lifesize R2D2 Cozy by Sarah Rudder
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Lifesize R2D2 Cozy

Knitting
June 2012
Aran / 10 ply (8 wpi) ?
4 stitches = 1 inch
in stockinette
US 8 - 5.0 mm
1200 - 1400 yards (1097 - 1280 m)
37" high by 56" around
This pattern is available for free: R2D2-Knitting-Pattern.pdf

This is a Yarnbomb pattern to fit a bollard -- a cylinder of concrete with the following dimensions:

Circumference = 56”
Radius = 9”
Diameter = 17.825”
Arc of 90 degrees = 14”
Total height = 37”
Cylinder height = 23”

Because the pattern uses a gauge of 4st/inch, it should be pretty easy to convert for different sizes. 56 inches * 4 sts per inch = 224 to cast on. Use a tighter gauge if your bollard is smaller, double up your yarn if its much larger (though I’ll warn you, this pattern is very near life size already). If you increase the CO count, distribute your sts evenly across all four “faces” or sides.

A note on sizing: as with any Yarnbomb, the effect is diminished if the cozy is ill-fitting. Measure your object and resolve to knit something that will just barely fit. Making it on the small side is better than oversized, as the fabric will stretch and its that stretching over the frame that gives the project a clean, custom fit.

I used Caron One Pound in a creamy off-white, because I thought a pure white would get dirty and look too “crafty”; and while it may take you a while to accept that its not dingy white, the pearl color actually feels more realistic than a true white. I also hopped between Red Heart colors I already had, and Vanna’s Choice for the metallic silver and blue, which I would also recommend. Yarn bombs can feel very soft and fluffy, and a robot ought to have a sheen or harshness. I’m pleased with the outcome of these yarns.

I basically worked the body in the round from the bottom up in off-white, purling and knitting ridges and ribbing where appropriate. I divided the body into four quarters and used the pdf to keep track of where and when to start the sections. Then i changed to grey, then blue, then grey and blue again as I decreased similar to a hat pattern. After I had the shape done, I knit the separate colored pieces and stitched them on, or used swiss darning to add the color back in over top (silver on top of blue on the dome, or blue on the white for the front, etc.

As you can see, one of my decrease markers landed right in the middle of R2’s “face” — I’ve tried to adjust for that in the pattern but feel free to manipulate it and do your own decrease method to hide that better!

Swiss Darning: http://www.studioknits.com/bookpage55.htm